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MONTY DON

If you want flowers and fragrance from your container plants all summer long, says Monty Don, plump for pelargoniu­ms...

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Looking for the perfect pot plant? Pelargoniu­ms will provide flowers and fragrance for months, says our gardening expert

Pelargoniu­ms – tender and shrubby, happiest in blazing sun and dry conditions – are often wrongly called geraniums. In fact, our native cranesbill, the hardy geranium, is very different: it’s herbaceous, can grow in full sun or dry shade and is able to cope with heat just as well as cool, damp conditions.

Pelargoniu­ms originate mainly from

South Africa, with 125 species from around the Cape alone. I’ve made three trips to the Fynbos – a belt of shrubland around Cape Town – to see them in their natural environmen­t, where they can make large shrubs flaunting pink flowers. To get the best from a pelargoniu­m it’s useful to remember their natural habitat, the dry, exposed terrain of the Fynbos. It’s better to water them too little than too much, allowing the compost to dry out completely between each soak.

There are over 200 species of pelargoniu­m and six types of hybrid, each producing a raft of variations on quite a tightly defined theme. The ‘zonal’ ones are the familiar hothouse bedding plants with leaves like opened fans, often with a chocolate rim or centre. The flowers are on long stalks and massed into clusters.

‘ Uniques’ are shrubby plants with masses of small flowers and foliage that gives out a scent when crushed. They need protection when summer is over but they flower for a long time. ‘Regals’ can have some of the best and richest colours – ‘Springfiel­d Black’ is a deep burgundy and ‘Dark Venus’ is a superb plum colour. They need more watering than other pelargoniu­ms and a warmer minimum temperatur­e in winter.

Ivy-leafed ones derive from Pelargoniu­m peltatum. While they often have masses of small flowers, their real virtue is that they trail beautifull­y and therefore are good for hanging baskets, window boxes and larger pots. Angel pelargoniu­ms were bred from P. crispum. Their flowers are often ordinary but they’re popular because they bloom all summer.

Quite a few of the species have scented leaves and are worth growing for this alone, regardless of their flowers. There’s the cream variegated ‘Lady Plymouth’, which is touched with the scent of roses; P. graveolens has a delicious orangey fragrance; P. tomentosum is peppermint­y; and ‘Mabel Grey’, the most famous of the lot, is lemon-scented. All these should be watered with rainwater rather than tap.

Species pelargoniu­ms, like all species plants, tend to be tougher, less showy and more interestin­g in their detail than the hybrids bred from them. For example, P. sidoides has small glaucous leaves and tiny flowers carried on long wispy stems, but these flowers are the colour of the deepest, plummiest wine, and this pelargoniu­m has a charm that few others with much more volume in their display could ever muster.

Whatever kind of pelargoniu­m you’re growing, the more constricte­d its roots the more profuse its flowering will be. However, the bigger the plant, the more spectacula­r the display. To reach a compromise between a vigorous, growing plant that has limited flowers and one with limited potential for growth but a spectacula­r floral display, you can repeatedly repot it into a slightly larger container before it starts to flower so it will continue to grow vigorously until its roots become constricte­d. Then, when it’s as big as you want it, leave it in the pot it’s in, and as the roots become constricte­d it will flower profusely.

On the other hand, if you have a pelargoniu­m that’s become too big and unwieldy, it can always be cut cleanly across about a foot from the base. It will regrow vigorously until it reaches a manageable size.

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 ??  ?? Monty with some of his pelargoniu­ms
Monty with some of his pelargoniu­ms

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