CUCUMBER SOUP

Large houses like Downton relied on their kitchen gardens to supply most of their fruit and vegetables. The original recipe for this soup appeared in Eliza Acton’s Modern Cookery For Private Families, one of the best-sellers of the 19th century and remaining in print for more than 60 years. Cooks who, like Downton’s Mrs Patmore, learned their art in the Victorian period would have known it well.

Serves 6-8 as a starter, or 4 as a light main

4 cucumbers, peeled and cut into 2.5cm (1in)-thick slices

1 shallot, finely diced

600ml (1pt) chicken stock

2tsp salt

½tsp cayenne pepper, or to taste

1tbsp rice flour

240ml (8½fl oz) double cream

1 bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley,

large stems discarded Combine the cucumbers, shallot, stock, salt and cayenne in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover partially, and cook for about 45 minutes, until the cucumbers are tender.

Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Working in batches, transfer to a blender and purée until smooth. Return the soup to the pan and heat over a mediumlow heat. In a small bowl, stir the rice flour into the double cream to dissolve it, and then stir the cream mixture into the soup. Keeping the soup at a gentle simmer, stir it continuously until it thickens, which will take about 10 minutes.

Just before serving, finely chop the parsley and stir it into the soup. Ladle the soup into individual bowls and serve hot. This soup may also be served cold, as is generally done now.