EGGS À LA ST JAMES

Delicate moulded individual creams and egg-based items appear on the table at Downton at many meals. Most often savoury, they are far removed from modern dish presentation. Instead, they are ideal for service à la russe, or in the Russian style, where dishes are brought out to diners in an order rather than all of the dishes being presented on the table at once. These eggs are best done in dariole moulds, which are tall and narrow, but they can also be made in a muffin tray.

Serves 6

Butter, for greasing

3tbsp finely chopped fresh

flat-leaf parsley

2tsp smoked paprika

6 anchovy fillets in olive oil

240ml (8½fl oz) double cream

6 eggs

¼tsp cayenne pepper, or 1tsp

hot-pepper sauce

Boiling water, for the bain

marie

6 thin slices of white sandwich

bread

Small watercress sprigs, for

garnish (optional) Preheat the oven to 165°C/fan 145°C/gas 3. Butter 6 standard muffin tray holes (about 7.5cm in diameter and 2cm deep) or metal dariole moulds. Sprinkle the bottoms equally with the parsley and smoked paprika, and curl an anchovy around the base (if using a muffin tray, you may need to cut the anchovies in half lengthwise to make them go fully around the holes). Add 1½tsp of the cream to each mould, then crack an egg into each.

Combine the remaining cream and the cayenne pepper or hotpepper sauce in a bowl and, using a whisk or handheld mixer on medium speed, whip until stiff peaks form. Set aside in a cool spot or refrigerate.

Set the muffin tray or moulds in a roasting pan and pour boiling water in to reach two-thirds of the way up the sides. Bake for 10-12 minutes, until the whites of the eggs are fully set and the yolks have thickened but are still runny or cooked to your liking.

Meanwhile, cut out a circle from the centre of each bread slice that is 2.5cm larger in diameter than the eggs. Toast the circles then arrange them onto individual plates. Turn out an egg from its mould onto each bread circle. Garnish with watercress, if using. Just before serving, spoon or pipe some of the whipped cream onto each egg. The cream will start to melt immediately, so serve quickly.

The royal chef ruffles feathers in the kitchen