BEETROOT, cured SEA BASS, BLACKBERRIES AND CHILLI

The acid from the blackberries helps cut through the richness here, and the addictive hit of chilli keeps you coming back for more.

SERVES 2 AS A MAIN, 4 AS A STARTER

1 fillet of wild sea bass (or bream), rod-and-line caught (about 250g/9oz)

200g (7oz) fine sea salt 6 golf ball-sized red beetroot, or 2 medium ones 20 ripe blackberries 1 medium-hot red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 3 sprigs of mint, roughly torn 4 sprigs of dill, torn into small sprigs, plus an extra few to garnish

Sea salt and black pepper

Check the fish for pin bones with your fingertips, pulling out any you find with your fingers or tweezers.

Spread half of the salt out on a plate, lay the fillet skin-side down on top, then sprinkle the remaining salt on top of the fish. Place in the fridge to cure for 20 minutes.

Remove from the fridge and rinse the salt off under cold running water. Pat dry with a clean cloth and return, uncovered, to the fridge.

Put the beetroot into a pan, add cold water to cover and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and cook until just tender (test with a knife). Small beetroots will take about 20-25 minutes; for larger ones, you’ll need to allow up to 45 minutes. Drain and let cool slightly, then rub off the skin. Leave to cool completely, then slice into thin wedges.

Next, skin the fish: place the fillet skin-side down on a board and make a small incision 5mm from the tail end, down to the skin but not through it. Grip the skin at that end and use a sharp knife to cut along the skin towards the wider end, separating the flesh from the skin.

Cut the flesh into thin slices about the thickness of a £1 coin and place in a bowl. Take half of the blackberries and crush them in your hands over the bass. Add the chilli, mint and dill and mix thoroughly. Place in the fridge to marinate for 20-30 minutes. Remove from the fridge and toss with the beetroot. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Finish with the remaining whole blackberries and sprigs of dill.