Make tracks to the ravishing Riviera
EVERY holiday begins the same way. The palms of my hands become clammy at the sight of the airport. Then, a sense of foreboding as I take my seat. When the engines roar into life, I am in fear for my life.
It’s as irrational as it is absurd. This year was going to be different. The challenge? To reach Mediterranean sunshine without a thought for oxygen masks or lifejackets. Thank goodness for the train!
I boarded the Eurostar from King’s Cross shortly after 9am to arrive in Paris for a leisurely lunch near the Gare du Lyon.
Then, a spacious top-deck seat aboard the high-speed TGV rail link whisked me past vineyards and the foothills of the Alps before hugging the pine-covered peninsulas of the French Riviera. By early evening, Cannes rolled into view.
The Cote D’Azur is one of the most expensive enclaves in the world. At the marina you can play spot the haves and have yachts, while the winding coastal road offers glimpses of multi-million pound retreats.
The Miramar Beach Hotel and Spa, a 30-minute taxi ride west of Cannes, near Theoule-sur-Mer, is wonderfully secluded, and a warm breeze rolls on to the private beach.
An electric golf buggy delivers guests up the hill to the sister hotel, Hotel Tiara Yaktsa, for dinner at Restaurant L’Or Bleu overlooking the Cote D’Azur’s bays. If chartering a yacht from the hotel’s pontoon is too pricey, borrow a kayak and head for the rugged coastline.
Since the Twenties the Cote d’Azur has been popular with U.S. celebrities, including recent visitors Leonardo DiCaprio, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. Top-notch restaurants cater for the super-rich, but it’s easy to find more humble spots.
Five minutes’ vigorous paddling (or a short stroll down the hill from the Miramar) takes you to the small marina at the Port de la Figueirette, where moules marinier and chips with a carafe of dry white costs just ¤ 15 (£10).
A hike up the Notre Dame d’Afrique, a hill with panoramic views, is exhilarating. And an hour-long massage in the hotel spa offers respite — as well as a good de-tangling — before the day-long homeward journey aboard two trains.
Next time, I may just take the plane.