AN INSPECTOR CALLS

BOX HILL represents some sort of Holy Grail for cyclists. But there’s another good reason for visiting this part of Surrey, 40 minutes or so from Central London: a proper old pub that serves delicious nosh, with five charming bedrooms offering real value for money.

The Running Horses, in the village of Mickleham, is owned by the Brakspear brewery company, but don’t let that put you off. There’s something for everyone here.

Dating back to the 16th century, the main bar area, with its open fire, Scrabble and Monopoly boards and framed photographs at a tilt, will please traditionalists who don’t have shares in Farrow & Ball, while the back part is given over to a more formal dining room — with panelled walls, portraits and cosy booths — that, I dare say, makes it a destination restaurant for foodies.

Because the food is good, I eat in the bar area, but order from the restaurant: wonderfully tender wood pigeon Wellington, with hot pickled red cabbage to start, followed by baked salmon in a wicked brown shrimp and butter sauce.

I’m here on my own. One member of staff comes to inspect my wood pigeon and seems genuinely

interested. ‘And what room are you in, sir?’ he asks. ‘Sandown,’ I tell him. ‘Good choice, if I may say so.’ It was the only one not taken, actually. But I like it a lot: French-style bed, espresso machine, creaking floorboards, grey walls, heavy duty towel rail, walk-in shower, two sash windows. All for £110 B&B.

Rooms are named after racecourses. There’s Ascot, Windsor, Epsom — no mention of Market Rasen or Bangor-on-Dee, I notice.

The pub used to be called The Chequers, but when two horses (Colonel and Cadland) crossed the line together in the 1828 Derby at nearby Epsom, it changed its name to The Running Horses, and the signature ale for ever more has been called the Dead Heat Derby.

Breakfast is low-key. There are newspapers to read, the coffee is strong and my boiled eggs are cooked to perfection. We do these sort of places remarkably well nowadays.

The Running Horses Old London Road, Mickleham Surrey, RH5 6DU 01372 372279, therunninghorses.co.uk Doubles from £110 B&B