Forget cup size, it’s the shape that matters
Follow this guide and buying a bra that really fits will never have been so easy
CHOOSING a bra can be a nightmare, even if you do manage to track down the correct cup size. But now, it seems we have been doing it wrong all along. For new research has found that it is the shape of our breasts — rather than the traditional measurements taken around the chest — which best determines everything from the cut of bra to the clothes we should wear.
Lingerie company ThirdLove has even devised a breast shape dictionary, identifying the seven most common shapes, with advice on choosing the best underwear. Lingerie expert Becky John and stylists Natalie Theo and Tara Kavanagh-Dowsett of dressipi.com share their top tips on dressing to flatter your shape.
ROUND
Equally full at the top and bottom. THIS, we are told, is what a ‘ perfect’ breast should look like, but most of us don’t match up to that, says Dr Tracy Mountford, medical director of The Cosmetic Skin Clinic. ‘Women are genetically predisposed to have a certain breast shape, just as we have a particular nose shape or hair colour.’
The shape is not determined by fat, but the density of breast tissue, which is firmer to the touch than fat. But even the firmest breasts have a shelf life. In our 40s, as we approach the menopause and our ovaries produce less oestrogen, breast tissue is gradually replaced by fat — known as involution — leaving breasts much softer and less firm. BRA TO TRY: Underwiring and wider straps will provide support, says lingerie expert Becky John, while a plunge style will give an everyday shape, but leave cleavage. Try Satine Bra (£29, bravissimo.com). HOW TO DRESS: Low necklines will flatter your bust, says stylist Natalie Theo. High necks would make you look top-heavy.
DIFFERENT SIZES
Asymmetric — one breast is larger than the other. THIS is surprisingly common, says Dr Mountford. ‘ Most of us have one boob that is slightly bigger. Or one might be slightly lower.
‘That’s why I always say that breasts are sisters, rather than identical twins.’
Indeed, it’s estimated that 99 per cent of women have different-sized breasts to some degree and 40 per cent have one breast that is a full one to two cup sizes bigger. It is usually the left breast that is bigger, as it is nearer the heart where there are more arteries and veins, and also sits on top of a protective layer of fat that surrounds the heart. BRA TO TRY: Becky says it is important to buy a bra to fit the larger breast, rather than try to squeeze into a smaller cup. ‘Choose a bra with detachable padding that’s flat and covers the entire bust. This can be removed from one side to even out the breasts.’ Try Boudoir Marilyn (£45, figleaves.com). HOW TO DRESS: ‘Draw attention away from your bust by wearing patterns and prints,’ says Natalie.
SIDE SET
A wide space between breasts. ANOTHer important factor that determines how your bra fits is the separation, or spacing, between your breasts.
If there’s around three fingers’ width between your boobs, they’re considered side set. If they’re very close together or touching, they’re close set. Again, this is determined by genetics and varies widely between women. BRA TO TRY: When choosing a bra, Becky recommends that women with wide, side set breasts make sure underwires align properly with their breasts for the most comfortable and flattering fit. You should also choose a design that naturally pulls you in to a more central position, such as a front-fastener.
Or look for a plunge bra with an ingenious U-shape, designed to pull breasts together and ensure a more centrally placed cleavage stays put. Try Low Plunge U Bra (£28, bouxavenue.com). HOW TO DRESS: Stylist Tara advises steering clear of plunging necklines. ‘Go for higher necklines and pretty bust detailing. A pussybow dress or blouse will lift the eye up, drawing attention away from the breasts.’
BELL SHAPE
Slim at the top and full at the bottom. Besides gravity, many factors can contribute to sagging — weight gain or loss, hormonal changes, the strength of the ligaments holding up breast tissue and lifestyle choices.
‘running without a supportive bra can predispose you to more lax, droopy breast tissue,’ says Dr Mountford. ‘Significant drooping can be corrected only by a breast lift — a major operation. A nonsurgical solution, to tighten the muscle using ultrasound, can lift boobs by around 1cm.’ BRA TO TRY: Look for styles with circular underwiring to make the bust appear rounder. Vertical seams offer shaping and support. Try PrimaDonna Couture Balcony Bra (£88.95, rigbyandpeller.co.uk). HOW TO DRESS: ‘After enhancing your curves, look for clothes with a sleek fit — such as a tailored dress,’ says Natalie.
SLENDER
Smaller, flatter breasts. There are advantages to having smaller breasts: those with an A-cup are less likely to develop type 2 diabetes later in life than those with a more ample bosom, for example.
Yet, for many, being flat-chested is seen as undesirable — nearly half of women said a C-cup was their ‘ideal’ size, according to lingerie brand Playtex. BRA TO TRY: The good news for you is that it’s much easier to fake ‘up’ than ‘down’. ‘There are some very good built-in push-up pads that give natural fullness,’ says Becky.
With a pretty scalloped edge, flatter breasts can look rounder. There are also bras that come with soft ‘ cushions’ to insert, which can take you up to two cup sizes bigger. Try B.Wow’d Push-up (£35, figleaves.com) HOW TO DRESS: ‘Any details that add volume to this area, such as ruffles or frills, will help to create a curvier silhouette,’ says Natalie.
EAST WEST
Nipples face outwards. The most sought-after breast shape is round, coming to a small point at the nipple. Many bras are designed with this in mind. But nipple position can vary widely and an outward-facing nipple is very common.
Nipples can also face downwards, and this becomes more pronounced if breasts droop. For those prone to droopiness, diet changes can help, says nutritionist helen Bond. ‘A diet rich in vitamin C will help boost collagen production to strengthen the connective tissues that give the breast its structure.’ BRA TO TRY: ‘ Choose moulded, more rigid bras with side panels to draw in breasts and give maximum cleavage,’ says Becky. Try Jodie plunge bra (£26, bouxavenue.com). HOW TO DRESS: Avoid anything clingy, says Tara. More fluid fabrics that glide over the bust, such as shift dresses that skim the body, would be very flattering.
TEARDROP
Less full at the top. The deep ligaments that hold up breast tissue are constantly fighting gravity, but some of us are luckier than others.
‘The ligaments are weaker in some women, which is why even some young women will never have had a pert bust,’ says Dr Mountford.
For many, sagginess is a big concern. ‘Like a saggy face, in our society, saggy boobs send out a message that you are older.’ BRA TO TRY: The teardrop is best served by a suportive plunge bra, says ra’el Cohen, of ThirdLove. ‘ These have a deeper neckline and the cups are at an angle to create lift, which helps fill in the top where the breasts are shallower.’ Try heidi Klum Intimates Contour Balconnet (£38, figleaves.com). HOW TO DRESS: Steer clear of detailing on the neckline as this will add bulk. A bodyskimming fit will flatter your silhouette.