AN INSPECTOR CALLS

THE Arundell Arms is less than a couple of miles off the busy A30 in Lifton, Dartmoor — but feels far removed from life’s daily rigours.

It’s been in the hands of the Fox-Edwards family since 1961, and its reputation is mainly as a fishing hotel.

Anglers will love it. Expert tuition is available on the River Tamar and there are various nearby lakes where you can finesse your cast. Saltwater fly fishing is also offered on the north Cornwall or Devon coastline.

The hotel (pictured right) even has its own tackle shop.

The current owner’s late mother, Anne Voss Bark MBE, edited West Country Fly Fishing, a collection of essays, and became a leading figure in the world of river conservation. When she was 75, her children suggested she should slow down — so she traded in her Porsche 928 for a three-litre Jag.

Traditional best sums it up. Our double bed has deep floral pelmets, there’s a comfortable sofa, proper keys and a TV several sizes too small for the room.

We notice that the staff are all British (three pairs of mothers and daughters work here), there are fresh flowers on the tables, waitresses wear uniforms and the cream teas feature warm scones and irresistible home-made strawberry jam.

No, it is not the slightest bit trendy, but what excites us is the inspired cooking of master chef Steven Pidgeon.

His Cornish scallops with bacon and a smear or two of this and that are sensational.

The main dining room, down a shiny passage, is a formal affair — which is another way of saying you can have a conversation without shouting.

We had considered eating in the bar area, but it looked pokey and strangely at odds with the rest of the hotel. Before turning in, my wife noticed a slug on her pillow, but flicked it out the window with all the aplomb of a fisherman throwing back his catch.

After that, silence reigned until the next morning, when we heard the ghillie outside preparing for another day on the river.

Breakfast paled in comparison to dinner (undercooked bacon, overcooked eggs), but we liked the atmosphere.

On leaving, we viewed the hotel from the front and decided that most people would dismiss it out of hand as drab and dreary.

We’re glad we didn’t do that. Not many places like this are still in business.