At last! The suncream that will work for YOUR skin

WE ALL know the importance of wearing sun cream — but these products can prove tricky for people with existing skin conditions. ‘If your skin is already inflamed or broken, for example, applying sun creams may aggravate it, so finding one that suits your skin type is essential,’ says Dr Justine Hextall, a consultant dermatologist and medical director of the Tarrant Street Clinic in Arundel, Sussex.

As a general rule, you should choose sun protection that’s at least SPF 30 and with a three to five-star UVA rating.

Here, Dr Hextall picks her best buys for different skin issues.

ACNE

THIS is triggered by an over-production of oil in the skin’s sebaceous glands, which can then block pores.

Though the sun can be helpful for acne, it can also be problematic for patients using certain treatments that make the skin more sensitive, says Dr Hextall.

‘ People using retinoid creams containing vitamin A, the oral treatment Roaccutane or laser treatments are at risk of hyperpigmentation [dark patches] or sunburn, so they need to apply sun cream more than most.’

However, many acne patients worry that oily sun creams will block their pores and make their spots worse.

BEST BUY: Eau Thermale Avene Cleanance Sunscreen SPF50 (50ml, now £12, boots.com).

Generally, creams that provide a physical sun block — using minerals to deflect the sun’s rays — are better for oily skin than chemical blocks, which work by absorbing light and releasing it as heat from the skin, says Dr Hextall, as they are less likely to cause a reaction.

This product contains both chemical and mineral blocks. However, Dr Hextall says: ‘This is the first sun protection product I’ve come across which actively treats acne — it contains ingredients such as monolaurin, which inhibits oil production and has an antibacterial effect. And the thermal spring water used to make it is well-known for its antiinflammatory qualities.’

ROSACEA

An INFLAMMATORY skin condition, this causes red flushing on the nose, cheeks, chin and forehead, and sometimes spider veins and thickened skin on the nose. Around 5 per cent of adults are affected by it.

‘Sunlight is one of the main triggers for a rosacea attack, then the skin becomes red and inflamed and more sensitive to sun products,’ says Dr Hextall. ‘If you have rosacea and sunscreens have irritated your skin in the past, choose a physical rather than a chemical block, which may be less likely to cause irritation.’

BEST BUY: Bare Republic Mineral Sunscreen Tinted Face SPF30 (50ml, £17, feelgoodmatters.com).

Designed for the face, this cream is lightly tinted and chemical-free.

‘ It contains zinc and titanium oxide to provide a physical sun block, and is tinted to camouflage redness,’ says Dr Hextall. ‘It’s also fragrance-free, so less likely to cause irritation or dryness, and could be easily worn underneath make-up.’

VITILIGO

DUE to a lack of the pigment melanin, people with vitiligo have pale white patches on their skin — and these are more vulnerable to sunburn, says Dr Hextall.

Another group of people who have to be particularly careful in the sun are those who have had skin cancer previously — including malignant melanomas and less dangerous forms, such as basal cell carcinoma — and those taking immunosuppressant medications (such as transplant patients).

‘UV rays can penetrate clouds, so people at risk still need to protect themselves every day whatever the weather, even if they’re not in the sun,’ says Dr Hextall.

BEST BUY: Actinica Lotion ( 80g, £ 19.98, amazon. co.uk) has ‘broad spectrum UV protection’ specially for people at higher risk of skin cancer, according to the manufacturers.

It was found to reduce actinic keratosis lesions (sun-induced scaly patches that can turn cancerous) by 53 per cent within two years in people who’d had an organ transplant, according to a 2009 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology.

‘Other products may have the same effect, but this company is the only one that has done the research to prove it can prevent actinic keratosis,’ says Dr Hextall. ‘ Though it’s not specifically marketed at vitiligo patients, I think it would be a good product for this condition because of the very high protection it offers.

‘ It’s particularly useful for applying to the scalp if you’re bald — the area is prone to sun-induced lesions regardless of whether you’re immune-suppressed.’

ECZEMA

THIS condition affects one in five children and one in 12 adults. Skin is dry, itchy and inflamed and can crack and become infected.

Sunlight can either improve eczema symptoms or aggravate them. ‘Patients should look for an emollient-based sun cream which will lock moisture in to the skin as well as protect it from UV rays,’ says Dr Hextall.

BEST BUY: Eucerin Extra Light Sun Lotion SPF 50 (150ml, £18.50, boots.com). ‘This contains octocrylene, which has a hydrating effect, and glycerine, which attracts water into the skin,’ says Dr Hextall.

‘It also contains licorice extract, an antioxidant with an anti-inflammatory effect, and has a light texture that is easily absorbed with no greasy finish.’

In a small study, 84 per cent of people said their skin condition had improved after using this product for two weeks, she adds.

POLLUTION DAMAGE

In ADDITION to the sun’s rays, microparticles of pollutants — from traffic fumes and smoking, for example — can penetrate and further damage the skin.

A study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology comparing women living in urban and rural environments over 24 years found that those exposed to more pollution had more dark spots and wrinkles.

‘ There’s evidence the sun and pollution work together, and the combination can accelerate skin damage and ageing,’ says Dr Hextall.

BEST BUY: Murad City Skin Age Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 50 (50ml, £45, johnlewis.com).

This contains lutein — a compound found in some vegetables — which the makers claim creates a barrier to pollutants.

‘There is some evidence from lab studies of lutein protecting cells against blue light [from phones and laptops], though I would like to see more,’ says Dr Hextall.

‘The product does contain iron oxide mineral blocks to protect against longer wave-length infrared radiation from the sun. Some scientists claim infra-red may alter collagen — the scaffolding structure in the skin — and lead to wrinkles and sagging skin.

‘But the cream is pricey and you could possibly get a similar effect by eating more antioxidant-rich foods and applying a vitamin C serum under a sun cream.’

PSORIASIS

AROUND 1.3 million people are affected by psoriasis, which causes red, raised, scaly plaques of skin. It occurs when the immune system becomes too active and speeds up the new skin replacement process.

‘Sunlight can improve psoriasis in some cases, but it’s still vital to protect the skin,’ says Dr Hextall.

‘ Historically, most psoriasis creams have been quite greasy, so patients tend to complain about having to apply oily sun creams on top. But newer treatments are more easily absorbed.’

BEST BUY: Soltan Sensitive Hypoallergenic Suncare Lotion SPF 30 (200ml, £6, boots.com).

‘Though this product isn’t specifically designed for psoriasis, it’s a good choice for the condition because it’s easily absorbed and moisturises to prevent dryness and reduce peeling,’ says Dr Hextall.

‘Because it’s reasonably priced, there’s more chance people will apply it in sufficient quantities. It’s also fragrance-free, so less likely to cause irritation.’

SENSITIVE SKIN

PEOPLE with generally sensitive skin can react to perfumes and chemicals, causing a rash.

BEST BUY: Solero UltraSensitive Sun Lotion SPF 50 (200ml, £7, lloyds pharmacy.com).

‘ This is specially formulated for people prone to skin allergies and eczema,’ says Dr Hextall. It’s fragrancefree, non-greasy and contains moisturisers.

SUN ALLERGY

UP TO 15 per cent of Britons suffer from polymorphic light eruption, a rash thought to occur when UV light triggers a reaction by the immune system. It is sometimes described as a sun allergy.

‘It causes a pimply rash that tends to appear 24 to 48 hours after sun exposure,’ says Dr Hextall. It is often worse at the start of summer, when the skin hasn’t been exposed to much sun.

‘If skin becomes hot and inflamed an oily sun cream can trap in the heat, making the rash worse.’

BEST BUY: Eucerin Sun Allergy Protection Creme- Gel SPF 50 (150ml, £19, boots.com). It contains the antioxidant alpha-glucosylrutin (AGR), extracted from the pagoda tree.

‘AGR may offer protection against polymorphic light eruption by mopping up free radicals [harmful molecules produced by sunlight], and as such reducing the immune response which causes this reaction,’ says Dr Hextall.

‘Impressive research shows that this ingredient can significantly reduce the risk of developing sun allergy symptoms.’