Why THE trend for summer is: Go East!
AT the unbelievably glamorous Royal Academy Summer Party a couple of weeks ago the guests were, of course, beautifully dressed, but what a blinking cold night it was.
As we huddled in the courtyard, buffeted by a burst of miserable, cold rain, I pondered again on what best to wear for a high summer party, in our unpredictable isle.
Having eyed my fellow RA revellers (some looking distinctly cold-shouldered and shivery), I would say that those working a kimono + party dress + elegant platform combination had figured the ultimate bulletproof party equation.
Party practicalities aside, there is an East-meets-West feeling in fashion now, with a grab bag of oriental influences from Chinese cheongsams (those slinky, fit-like-a-glove, satin sheaths); to Japanese kimonos, obi belts, brocade platform mules and beyond.
On the catwalks, we can thank the mighty house of Gucci and the thrillingly revived Kenzo label for influencing the more maximalist interpretations of the trend, such as pouncing tiger prints and loud, proud embroideries.
At the more minimal, modernist end of the spectrum, the grande dame of Japanese contemporary fashion, Rei Kawakubo of Tokyo-based label Commes des Garçons, is the not- so- secret influence behind all those asymmetric skirts and voluminous proportions filling the rails. BACK
to my kimono/party cover-up revelation, the High Street is awash with fantastic options, one of my favourites being a long and lean, ochre floral number with a touch of the gentleman’s smoking jacket (£ 69.99 at zara.com).
As ever with a strong trend, the key to carrying it off is to avoid being too literal or costumey. You are not Madonna. You are not auditioning for Memoirs Of A Geisha. Do not give in to a whim to fix your chignon with a chopstick.
Browsing online, I seek out a knockout piece from one of my favourite brands, Essentiel Antwerp (£ 295, essentialantwerp.com).
In person it is even better (reader, I ordered it) made from a satisfyingly heavy, crepe fabric, with magnificent statement sleeves that make it feel truly luxurious.
Oh did I say, it has an octopus embroidered on the back? It works well for a less formal evening soirée with jeans, kitten heel mules and a T-shirt (though personally I’d avoid scoop-neck styles, which can all get a bit Pyjama Day). For
a less dramatic, High Street option try Warehouse’s shorter-line navy and yellow kimono jacket (£ 32, warehouse.co.uk).
Keeping the rest of your look relatively dialled down is what is going to keep you looking chic and modern. For instance, if you’ve got long- ish hair, avoid wearing it too big — it makes the effect a bit boudoir- y. Ditto lace- trim camisoles and needle heels.
Chinese cheongsam dressing has really cast its spell over the season. If searching online for a dress or top inspired by this figure-hugging silhouette, it’s worth noting that High Street retailers rarely use the term ‘cheongsam’, preferring instead to refer to this style as ‘mandarin neck’.
In a similar vein, & Other Stories has a dreamy capsule collection in store gently inspired by Asian landscapes. (£65,