Chef’s guide to the scrummiest mayos

It now outsells ketchup and comes in bewildering varieties

Our love affair with ketchup is finally over — The Grocer this week revealed sales of mayonnaise have outstripped it for the first time.

As a chef and a foodie, I could not be happier. The only surprise is why on earth it’s taken so long. Don’t get me wrong, I love ketchup — in its place. It’s unbeatable on a bacon sandwich and great with cheese on toast. But for just about every other job going, from chips to burgers, mayo wins hands down.

In my restaurant, Tredwells, in Covent Garden, London, we offer both. But these days, diners who reach for the ketchup are mostly aged under 12. Adults turn up their noses. And the shift is starting to show. Sales of ketchup fell 2.7 per cent to £145.5 million last year, while mayo rose 6.9 per cent to £152.2 million.

So what’s driven the change? Well, our worries about high levels of sugar undoubtedly play a part. For a long time, we steered clear of mayo as it is so high in fat. But it has nowhere near the sugar content of ketchup, which typically contains 22.8g of sugar per 100g (mayonnaise has only 1.3g).

While no one could call mayo a weight-loss aid, it does fit well with the trend for high-fat, lowcarb diets.

I like to think it’s also a sign that we’ve developed a more refined national palate. Mayonnaise (the name is French, but the Spanish claim they invented the sauce) is a subtle and versatile ingredient.

Its neutral flavour and creamy consistency make it the perfect base for sweet and sour flavours.

Sales are also being boosted by an explosion of exciting new versions, such as chipotle chilli or sriracha. Made from chilli peppers, vinegar, garlic, sugar and salt, the spicy sauce sriracha can pack a real punch. But, added to mayo, you get all the piquancy but much less heat. I’ve been serving sriracha mayo for a few years now, both in Tredwells and at The Gilbert Scott, in London’s St Pancras. You can now buy it in the supermarket, too.

We all know mayo is essential at any summer barbecue. But if you’re thinking of edging your bottle to the back of the larder as winter approaches, think again.

Try a dollop of garlic mayo with your roast chicken. Slap a chipotle variety in your baked potato. And — if you are feeling brave — serve your Sunday roast with horseradish mayo (just add a teaspoon or two of horseradish to a dish of mayonnaise). It’s sensational.

Or why not make mayonnaise and add your own flavours? It’s so easy — you can whip up a bowl in under ten minutes.

Whisk two egg yolks with half a teaspoon of Dijon mustard and a splash of lemon juice or white wine vinegar. Whisking continuously, slowly drizzle in olive oil until you get the right consistency.

If you’re not ready to make your own, here’s my round-up of the newest — and quirkiest — flavours you can buy ready-made.

Heinz Smokey Baconnaise £2.50 for 880g, Iceland

urGH. This is wrong on so many levels. For starters it doesn’t even contain bacon! It’s actually made from a combination of soya oil, tomato puree and various ‘smoke flavourings’. A novelty item only.

Gran Luchito Mexico Chipotle Chilli Mayo £2.30 for 180g, Sainsbury’s

THE authentic smoked chilli flavour is totally delicious. It works brilliantly with everything from chips to tacos.

TruffleHunter Black Truffle Mayonnaise £9.95 for 180g, Amazon

I’M NOT a huge fan of truffle oil. But if you like the intense earthy flavour, this gourmet dip could work well for you with posh burgers or in classy sandwiches. It will certainly impress your guests!

Sir Kensington’s Avocado Oil Mayonnaise £8.20 for 450g, Amazon

THE avocado gives a nuttier flavour than traditional olive oil, and adds a pretty green hue. I like the subtle addition of lime, too. Great with salads and for health fiends.

Sir Kensington’s Sriracha Mayonnaise £5.52 for 280g, Amazon

SErVE this delightfully spicy mayonnaise with everything from chips to roast chicken. Yum.

Delouis Fils Dijon Mayonnaise £2.55 for 250g, Waitrose

YOu can’t go wrong trying a classic with extra mustard. It’s sharply seasoned and has no added sugar. Great with sausages.

Farrington’s Mellow Yellow Mayonnaise £2 for 240g, Waitrose

I LOVE the bright yellow colour. The rapeseed oil gives a nuttier, less bitter flavour and the fact it’s also gluten-free means it’s great for careful eaters.

Stokes Garlic Mayonnaise £2 for 345g, Waitrose

THE French and Spanish adore garlic mayo (which they call aioli) and serve it with everything from breadsticks to soup. Personally I like the garlic to be smoked, which gives it a less pungent aftertaste.

Waitrose Lemon Mayonnaise £1.71 for 250ml, Waitrose

LEMON (or lime) works excellently with mayonnaise, particularly as an accompaniment to fish dishes. But to ensure you get that fresh zing add the zest.

Waitrose Wholegrain Mustard Mayonnaise £1.71 for 250ml, Waitrose

I LOVE the gritty texture, which would be great in a pasta salad or with sausages.