Watch out! Your other half could soon be pinching your perfume

...and you’ll be nicking his cologne

Awhiff of leather, a hint of woodsmoke — you might think i’m describing the base notes of a classic, masculine cologne, but in fact i am spritzing my own neck and wrists with something sensual and rather wonderful.

No, it’s not my husband’s aftershave, either — though it could soon be. for this is Guerlain’s new and much-hailed scent Lui, which is designed to be worn by both men and women. it’s one of a new breed of unisex fragrances that are proving to be big sellers.

for years, we’ve been programmed to assume that sugary, flower-shop flavours are strictly for women, and gritty woodland notes for men.

But experts say a perfume that doesn’t fit those stereotypes can smell fresh and interesting as a result, and just a little bit sexy. Certainly, i have to say that Lui somehow suits both my husband and me. On my wrists, i found it to be glamorous and indulgent with a hint of juicy pear and warm vanilla, but without being overpowering, sugary or floral.

when i tried it on my husband, the fragrance smelt warm, syrupy and addictive — different, but not at all effeminate.

As Thierry wasser, Guerlain’s perfumer, says: ‘i do not believe in rules. And when you do know the rules, how exciting it is to bend them.’

Making perfumes that unite rather than divide the sexes is also a much better sales strategy, which perhaps explains why unisex fragrances are dominating this autumn’s major launches.

‘Telling 50 per cent of your potential market they shouldn’t be wearing your fragrance doesn’t make sense on any level to me,’ says Tom Daxon, the son of a Molton Brown creative director. ‘Anyway, what’s a man’s smell and what’s a woman’s smell? it’s totally arbitrary.’

Andrea Rickard, head of buying at The Perfume Shop, agrees and points out that sales of unisex scents are up by 24 per cent compared with last year.

‘we’re seeing equal numbers of men and women buying some perfumes, such as Tom ford Black Orchid, where the ingredi- ents — dark chocolate, incense, amber, vanilla and vetiver — cross over between men’s and women’s fragrance,’ she says. ThiS

is part of a general move away from floral scents. Research by beauty brand Jurlique found that 77 per cent of customers preferred a more botanical, herbal scent to a sweet one.

Luxury perfumer Diptyque, meanwhile, has released the unisex Vetyverio Eau de Parfum, which smells of dry, earthy vetiver — an indian grass.

Tobacco is another ingredient that for years was linked to colognes for men, but these days is showing up in fragrances worn by women, too.

it’s the perfect contrasting note that turns something fruity or floral into a more sophisticated blend, and you can smell it in Penhaligon’s Portraits Roaring Radcliff or Miller harris feuilles de Tabac, both of which are suitable for either men or women.

Jo Malone’s new advertising campaign for the English Oak collection shows a man and woman wearing almost identical outfits sprawled beside giant bottles of its two new fragrances, English Oak & hazelnut, and English Oak & Redcurrant. Meanwhile, men are now experimenting with floral notes.

‘Le Labo Rose 31, for instance, strongly appeals to men, with rose top notes but a gritty base of smoky guaiac wood and oud that keeps it from feeling girlie,’ says Sarah Coonan, head of beauty buying at Liberty.

So, which would you share?