PORK works well, too. SERVES 4.

Ingredients

1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for the topping 1 onion, chopped 500g pork or wild boar mince Pack of parsley, stalks and leaves chopped 2 minced garlic cloves Pinch fennel seeds Pinchdried chilli flakes ½ tsp cinnamon Grating of nutmeg 120ml white wine 2 tomatoes, chopped 4 celery sticks, cut into 5cm lengths 400ml chicken stock Butter, for the dish For the topping 1 celeriac, peeled and cut into large chunks 1 bay leaf 200ml milk 30g parmesan, plus rind if you have it 1 tbsp creme fraiche or natural yoghurt 1 rosemary sprig, chopped

Method

1. Heat oven to 200c/180c fan/gas 6. Heat the oil and cook the onion with mince, parsley stalks, garlic, fennel, chilli, cinnamon, nutmeg and a pinch of salt until the mince is browned. Pour in the wine and reduce by a third, then add tomatoes and cook for 3 mins or so. Add celery and cook for 10 mins, then pour in stock and parmesan rind, if using, and part cover. Cook for 20 mins, or until celery is tender and the mix is rich and concentrated, but not dry, then stir through parsley leaves.

2. Put the celeriac in a saucepan with the bay leaf. Pour over milk and a pinch of salt, then cover and simmer for 10-15 mins until tender. Blend in a food processor with the parmesan and creme fraiche or yoghurt. Season to taste.

3. Pour the mince into a buttered pie dish or roasting tin. Top with the celeriac and scatter with rosemary. Drizzle over a little olive oil, then roast for 30 mins until the top is golden. n