DISCOVER THE DELIGHTS OF THE DOURO
A cruise along Portugal’s river of gold offers dramatic scenery, history and culture and the chance to learn about the region’s most famous export – Port wine. By Leigh Mellor
WHEN the Phoenicians and the Romans first mined for gold ore in what we now know as northeast Portugal, they would transport their treasures towards the coast on the river that wended its way from the hills north of Madrid and henceforth became known as the Douro – literally translating as ‘of gold’.
As the river meanders on its route towards the Atlantic, neatly manicured slopes, where row upon row of vines form tiers of bold stripes, rise steeply from its banks. While the natural landscape is in itself dramatic, the impact of human intervention has created a striking sense of theatre and a unique, intensely fertile terroir in the region. A layer of sandy-hued shale chips covers the ground, below which the soil has been blended with finely crushed rock, providing verdant vines that have brought economic prosperity to Porto and the surrounding area.
IDEAL FOR WINE AFICIONADOS
RETAINING much of its old charm, dotted with ancient villages and remote farmhouses, the Douro region is an enchanting destination for wine connoisseurs and aspiring oenophiles alike. And there’s no better way to explore than on a cruise along the ribbon of water that gave the area its name. The Douro was once prone to flooding the surrounding area in its lower reaches, but a series of dams with integrated locks has transformed the fast-flowing river into a series of tranquil lake-like stretches of water, making for a serene journey.
River cruises on the Douro operate from Porto, Portugal’s second-largest
city, which nestles at the mouth of the river in the north of the country. Most operators feature a six- or seven-day itinerary, sailing upstream across the Spanish border to offer excursions to the stunning city of Salamanca, before heading back downstream towards the Atlantic coast to conclude your trip back in Porto.
A historic city with UNESCO World Heritage status, thanks to its old fisherman’s quarter, a medley of medieval alleyways and ornate baroque architecture, Porto offers plenty to curious visitors. Packed with churches and overlooked by an impressive 12th-century cathedral, the old town is steeped in history – it’s worth making the effort to climb the 225 steps to the top of the 18th-century Torre dos Clerigos for stunning panoramic views of the city below and the mouth of the river.
Departing from Porto, you’ll enjoy a serene journey along the Douro Valley, steeped on other side with row upon row of terraced Port grapevines, in one of the oldest demarcated wine regions in the world. Different operators offer a variety of ports of call and excursions along the route to the Spanish border, with the chance to enjoy wine-themed cruises, or itineraries with broader appeal.
PORT SELECTION
AT SOME point during your passage, you’ll probably have the chance to travel to Lamego, a key Portuguese pilgrimage site where the Nossa Senhora dos Remédios (Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies) shrine features a stunning staircase of almost 700 steps, decorated with the region’s signature white and blue tiles.
Drop anchor in Barca D’Alva and visit Castelo Rodrigo, a small fortified village high on a hilltop, and in Regua, visit the Douro Museum or the magnificent baroque-style Palacio de Mateus, where the famous rosé wine is made, and its stunning gardens. On docking in Pinhão, most river cruise lines offer the chance to visit one of the region’s esteemed wine estates, to learn about the history of Port wine, the unique terroir of the area and the ancient methods used to make the area’s famed export, with an expertly guided tasting. Most of the wineries are set in beautiful, mature gardens and, even if you don’t drink Port, an estate visit is an enriching experience.
Across the Spanish border, most cruise lines operate excursions from Vega de Terron to breathtaking Salamanca, with its historic university, striking twin cathedrals and the beautiful ‘House of Shells’.
Surrounded at every turn by the deep gorges and wonderful colours of this stunning landscape, punctuated by the odd remote farmhouse, a Douro river cruise offers a restorative, relaxing break.
There’s no better way to explore than on a river cruise