LEITH’S ROAST DUCK

THIS is based on my signature dish at Leith’s restaurant when we opened in 1969. It was so popular that it stayed on the menu for 25 years, until I sold the restaurant. At one point, I thought the 60-odd ducks we sold a week would justify me starting a duck farm — but then, did I really want a duck farm? No. We used to roast the birds whole and the waiters would expertly carve them at the table. But, for ease and speed, I’ve adapted the recipe for duck breasts here, which also means you can cook the meat as rare as each diner prefers. SERVES 2 2 duck breasts Sea salt and cracked black pepper, to season For the sauce 15g butter 1 celery stick, finely chopped 1 small onion, finely chopped 30g granulated sugar 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 150ml strong poultry stock Finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange 2 tsp brandy To serve 45g flaked almonds, toasted Bunch of watercress HEAT the oven to 220c/fan 200c/gas 7. Rub the duck breasts all over with sea salt and cracked black pepper. Lay them skin-side down in a cold, heavy-based frying pan and set over a low heat. As the duck breasts cook, the fat will render and can be poured out into a bowl (to be used for roasting potatoes at a later date). After ten minutes or so, the skin should be crisp and golden. Turn over the breasts and transfer to a small, ovenproof dish or roasting tin. Pour any fat out of the frying pan and discard. Wipe the pan clean, add the butter and return it to the heat. Once the butter is hot, fry the celery and onion for four to five minutes, stirring, until softened. Set aside. Meanwhile, put the sugar and vinegar into a small, clean saucepan. Dissolve the sugar over a low heat, then boil until it caramelises: it should cook to a good, deep brown, with large, slow bubbles. Pour in the stock — this will hiss and splutter, so take care. Stir until the caramel lumps disappear. Add the softened celery and onion, followed by the orange zest and juice and the brandy. Spoon the sauce around the duck breasts and roast in the hot oven for six to seven minutes. Remove from the oven, cut into slices and serve with a scattering of almonds and some watercress.