48 hours in BEIRUT
Lebanon’s capital is an intoxicating, inviting and frenetic metropolis that will leave you feeling you’ve really made the most of your weekend
BEIRUT is a city with soul; you can feel its resilience in its streets, its culture, its people. One of the world’s oldest cities, this is a place where the historical and the contemporary work together wonderfully to create a unique atmosphere of reverence and celebration. Wander through its diverse districts, stroll along the Mediterranean seafront and throw yourself into its exuberant nightlife during 48 hours in Beirut…
DAY 1
9am: Cities where you can swim are a real novelty, so make the most of it with an early morning dip. Once you’ve bobbed about and worked up a hunger, head to one of the bars that line the beach. Indulge in a Middle Eastern breakfast at Bay Rock café, where you can feast on halloumi and beef cooked in almonds while looking out at the glistening Mediterranean Sea.
11am: Time to work off some of that hearty fare with a trinket hunt around Downtown Beirut. Mingle among the friendly locals and expert market traders at the city’s shopping mecca – the souk – where you can buy everything from designer shoes to traditional Lebanese cookware while wandering among the ancient foundations of the city.
2pm: Now it’s time for a little bit of history. Beirut dates back 5,000 years, so there’s plenty to swot up on. Make your Saturday afternoon a cultural one with a visit to the National Museum of Beirut, the city’s most important historical institutions. The museum carries everything from early Islamic pieces to prehistoric treasures, but make sure you check out one of its most famous exhibitions, the Phoenician gilded bronze figurines found buried near the Obelisk Temple at Byblos.
7pm: Start your evening with a turbo-booster at one of the packed local bars in the fun-loving Gemmayzeh district. Drop in to Anise (Alexander Fleming, Bayrut), a swish establishment where the bartenders are as well presented as their drinks. They can concoct any cocktail you fancy…or, you could take one of the local tipples? Try a shot of arak, the aniseed-flavoured spirit which acts as the bar’s namesake.
9pm: Surely a place called Bliss Street, is going to be well worth a visit. And this road in Beirut certainly won’t disappoint. Here you can eat like a local by dining at a Lebanese grill house. Grab a table Kababji, an eatery with a traditional menu and a modern conscience. Make sure to order big – you won’t regret it; try the Lebanese pizza, the grilled aubergine, the traditional grilled mezze and tabbouleh salad.
DAY 2
9am: Soak up the morning sunshine as you head down to Hamra. This area is a fascinating blend of cultures and religions, and one of the places which epitomises Beirut’s forward-thinking attitude. Watch the crowd bustle by as you sit down for a strong cup of Lebanese coffee in a café off the main street, which also makes the perfect backdrop for social-media snappers to fill their feeds.
11am: Beirut isn’t a city for slackers – but sometimes you just want to escape the frenzy for a while. That’s where the Sanayeh Garden provides the perfect escape. The manicured grounds are one of the few green spaces in the city, offering a calm oasis to enjoy for an hour or so – especially for locals, who will play card games in the shade of the trees.
1pm: For a seriously authentic lunch, book a table at Tawlet (12 Rue Naher, Armenia Street). Dine on simple Lebanese dishes made by a different guest chef from a different village each day to really savour the flavours of this amazing country.
3pm: Forget British politeness: there’s no better place to try out your haggling skills then on a trip to the Sunday flea market. The Souk el Ahad is awash with bargain antiques, vintage clothing and books and it’s essential that you have a good root – and barter – if you want to be in with a chance of finding a rare gem to take home.
Watch the crowd bustle by as you sit down for a coffee