Bedazzled by Bangkok
Charming and thrillingly chaotic, Thailand’s capital sizzles with life
BAnGKOK is the most visited city in the world, having overtaken london and Paris two years ago. And the trend is not expected to go into reverse any time soon.
When it comes to eating out, you can chomp your way around the globe at nearly 30 Michelin- starred restaurants, along with thousands of bars, street-food stalls and pop-ups.
BEAT THE JAMS
AT PeAK times, the city is so clogged it is almost unnavigable. stay somewhere near the MrT transit system and leave at least half an hour longer than Google Maps advises. Most locals resort to the motorbike taxis, but less brave visitors choose tuk-tuks, which are abundant, cheap and quick.
CULTURE VULTURE
Unless you’re a devotee of temples or Thai history, Bangkok is blessedly devoid of must- see tourist attractions.
As a visitor, it frees you up to eat, drink and soak up the atmosphere. A little temple goes a long way, especially in a hot and humid climate. The reclining Buddha is worth a lap. Beyond that, most can be seen from the river.
Away from the water, the narrow streets behind the grand riverside buildings are enjoying a renaissance.
The old General Post Office houses the Thailand Creative & Design Centre, while the roads around the si Phraya junction are filled with galleries, bars and small businesses.
When you’re in the area, you might be tempted to go to sky Bar, the rooftop bar that featured prominently in the film The Hangover Part II. Under no circumstances do this: it’s a tourist hellhole where you’ll end up spending a fortune.
BODY AND SOUL
FOrGeT the innuendo — massage is to Thailand what a pint in a country pub is to the UK. Many of the top hotels have excellent spas with a full range of services.
The Mandarin Oriental signature massage (£110) stands out as it involves a short boat ride across the river from the main hotel.
But those on a tighter budget can still be pampered. At the Divana spa on sukhumvit soi 25, two hours of oiling and rubbing will set you back less than £70: a real bargain.
TUCK IN
MAny tourists stay in and around sukhumvit, to the east of the old city. My favourite Thai spot is The local, on soi 23, where I ate a red pork curry with a miraculous balance of sour, spicy and sweet flavours. For the higher-end take on the classic, try Bo.lan, which has a Michelin star.
The Isarn region of Thailand, in the north- east, specialises in grilled meats and bold, complex flavours. If you can’t get out there, 100 Mahaseth is an ambassador for its cuisine.
For a hipster experience, try Ku Bar. There are three floors of amusements here: small-plate food on the first, a wine bar on the second and cocktails on the third.
Of course, food doesn’t have to be Thai. The city has one of the largest Japanese populations outside Japan. For an authentic
Omakase experience, where the chef prepares a selection of his own choice, you won’t do better than sushi Juban or sushi Zo, both off sukhumvit.
SUITS YOU
THere are plenty of shyster tailors who’ll promise the earth in a day only to deliver shoddy dy workmanship. Allow enough gh time for several fittings and nd insist on the best material al you can afford.
Tailor On Ten, which was s started by a Brit and a Canadian, has exemplary y customer service and will l ship anywhere in the world. . It will also keep a record of f your exact measurements s so you can order more e from home.
If you keep eating at a Bangkok rate, however, your measurements will by then be a distant memory.
SLEEP WELL
In THe royal palace district, The siam can claim to be one of the most civilised city hotels on earth. A converted Art Deco warehouse with huge art-filled rooms and peaceful atriums, its gardens are scented with frangipanis.
It is owned by the sukosol family, whose matriarch, Kamala, is one of Thailand’s most famous singers. A private boat ferries guests up and down the river, easily the best way to travel, although you’ll hardly want to leave the grounds.
rooms start from £470 a night. Closer to the centre, the new TwoThree, on sukhumvit soi 23, has clean, modern rooms and a pool from £56 a night.
GETTING THERE
CHInA southern flies from london Heathrow to Bangkok from £321 return ( global.csair.
com, 0203 901 5858).