POACHED SIDE OF SALMON WITH TARRAGON MAYONNAISE

I OFTEN cook salmon over the festive period — if we’ve had a succession of poultry and meat it makes a pleasant change. I’ll usually poach a large side, around 1kg, so there’s enough for a salmon salad Nicoise for lunch the following day.

SERVES 4

● 700g side of salmon

● Trimmings from 2 fennel tops

● Trimmings from 1 head of celery

● 1 small onion, peeled and sliced

● Large pinch of sea salt

● 150ml white wine

● Splash of tarragon vinegar

● 2 star anise

● A few white peppercorns, crushed

● Small handful of flat-leaf parsley

● 2 bay leaves

● 1 lemon, sliced

TARRAGON MAYONNAISE

● 1 large egg yolk

● 1 tsp English mustard

● 1 tbsp tarragon white wine vinegar

● 300ml sunflower oil

● Squeeze of lemon juice

● Splash of water

● 1 tbsp chopped tarragon leaves

● Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

● Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Half-fill a roasting tray (or a pan large enough to fit the salmon) with water. Put all the ingredients except the salmon in the pan.

Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. lower the side of salmon into the tray, skin side down, and spoon some of the vegetables and lemon slices on top.

if necessary, top up with more water to cover the fish. Simmer very gently for four minutes (allowing an extra minute for a larger side). Turn the heat off and leave the salmon to cool in the poaching liquor.

To make the tarragon mayonnaise, put the egg yolk, mustard and tarragon vinegar into a bowl and wrap a tea towel around the base of the bowl to steady it as you whisk. Start whisking and continue until the egg yolk mixture becomes very thick and pale. Do not season at this stage.

Gradually whisk in the oil, a little drizzle at a time, until it is all incorporated and you have a thick, emulsified mayonnaise base. Stir in the lemon juice and loosen the mayonnaise with a splash of water. Stir in the chopped tarragon and lemon zest and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Once the salmon has cooled, carefully lift it out using two fish slices and place on a large board. Gently peel off the skin and check the fish for pin bones, removing any you find with tweezers.

Divide the salmon into portions and serve with the tarragon mayonnaise and a leafy salad on the side.