Daily Mail

How to tend your orchids

- NIGEL COLBORN’S ESSENTIAL JOBS FOR YOUR GARDEN THIS WEEK

EVERY year, millions of Phalaenops­is or Moth Orchid are sold, often as gifts. Some manage to survive for a few months but few live long enough to flower again.

Despite being plants with fussy needs, these are not difficult to grow.

Plants purchased in flower are usually in tiny pots with very little growing medium. Instead of potting compost, you’ll find fibrous material such as sphagnum moss, bark chips or coconut fibres in the pot. The quantity used may seem inadequate, but it could sustain your orchid for a year.

Phalaenops­is originate mostly from South- East Asia, but have been extensivel­y hybridised. Most are epiphytes, growing wild in bark crevices or lodged in the forks of trees.

With tough, spidery roots they cling to their host plants. But unlike mistletoe, they are not parasitic. They derive what nourishmen­t they need from debris which falls with rain, or drops from the host tree. In that respect they resemble air plants which have no roots. When you bear that in mind, it is easier to understand their needs.

The first rule of care is to water your orchid thoroughly, but only when absolutely necessary. Allow the compost and roots to dry almost completely. If the spidery roots are still green don’t water. When they turn pale grey and the compost feels dry, it’s time to water.

For much of the year, several weeks can pass between watering. Always use rain water, at or near room temperatur­e. Tap water is toxic to them and should only be used in a desperate emergency.

Keep night temperatur­es at or above 17c (63f). Move the orchids to the centre of the room over cold nights.

Re-pot when the roots are becoming congested. Keep your orchids in a decorative outer container or a jardinière.

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