VILNIUS for under £100 a night

WE POUND THE STREETS ... YOU REAP THE REWARDS!

A few cities, like some people, are instantly dazzling. Vilnius has a gentler charm. It’s a pretty medieval town with cobbled streets, gothic churches and a fascinating history. Having suffered terribly in world war II and under the Soviets, Lithuania is on the rise and ready for tourists.

Where to stay

■ Shakespeare Boutique Hotel

In THIS old-school, beautifully run hotel, a stone’s throw from the gothic glory of St anne’s Church, every room is named after a famous writer and decorated accordingly. Mine, the ernest hemingway, had antlers and rifles on the wall, as well as stirring photos of the great man.

Doubles from £85 (shakespeare.lt)

■ Artagonist Art Hotel

The mural in my room, depicting a large and sensuous pair of lips, was startling. But there’s no faulting the location of this arty, well-run hotel, which is on the main drag in the old town — nor the quality of its superb breakfast.

Doubles from £85 (artagonist.lt)

■ Amberton Cathedral Square Hotel

THIS modern hotel is so close to Vilnius’s cathedral, you could hit it with a brick. Staff will give advice on what to see and where to go in the nearby old town. While enjoying your breakfast, you can gaze out at the cathedral.

Doubles from £60 (ambertonhotels.com)

Where to eat

■ Pilies Katpedele

When I asked for a large Kanapinis, the waitress smiled. That’s the name of the local craft beer, delicious at just over £2 per glass.

Other highlights of this traditional Lithuanian restaurant are the herring with marinated onions (£4.40) and the oily, meatfilled dough torpedos known as zeppelins, though they should only be attempted by the brave.

Address: Pilies gatve (037 061 120 576)

■ Kaukazo Gerybes

The sign outside boasts ‘the best coffee in Vilnius’, but the real draw is the £6 chinkali. Small meat dumplings: they are hard to eat elegantly, but totally delicious.

Address: Pilies gatve (037 065 030 800)

■ Cafe Suske

THIS offers simple fare, including rich fried bread with cheese (£4), which, after exploring the surrounding streets, is perfect. The waitress doesn’t speak english, so point carefully at the menu.

Address: Paupio gatve (037 060 444 700)

■ Gaspar’s

FOR a treat, book a table at this european-Indian fusion restaurant. The garlic shrimps were superb (£6.60), as was the chicken tikka with cucumber and yoghurt sauce (£5.80). It’s more expensive than some, but well worth it — and you can be sure of a warm welcome from owner and chef, Gaspar, who is an inveterate anglophile.

Address: Pylimo gatve (037 065 707 050)

How to get there

RYANAIR has return flights from London Southend from £ 20 ( ryanair.com).