What to see and do

■ A Pauline Conversion

LITHUANIANS visiting London have reportedly been disappointed by St Paul’s Cathedral. They have one of their own that they rate more highly. The 18thcentury Church of St Peter and St Paul, which is free to enter, is a baroque extravaganza in stucco. Address: Antakalnio gatve (037 052 340 229)

■ Tribute to Dr Lecter

VILNIUS’S old town is a warren of cobbled streets, cosy cafes and nice surprises. On Literatu gatve (Literature Street), artists have studded the walls with plaques in tribute to authors connected to Vilnius. Among them you’ll spot Thomas Harris, whose cannibal character Hannibal Lecter was Lithuanian-born.

■ First Hitler, then Stalin

NOT for the faint-hearted, but the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights (£3.50) is a must-see. The first part of the title refers to the fact that Lithuania was occupied by the Nazis, then the Soviets, both at horrific cost. The second part refers to partisans who continued the struggle in the forests for years after the war’s end. Address: Auku gatve (037 052 498 156)

■ The floating castle

HALF an hour’s drive outside Vilnius (£25 by taxi) awaits the reddest castle you’ll have ever seen. Floating on an island amid the grey waters of a lake, the 15th century Trakai Island Castle (pictured, right) is built of red gothic bricks and matching roof tiles. It costs £6 to enter. Take a boat trip around the lake.

■ An echoing gallery

ART lovers will enjoy the Lithuanian modern art at the NDG Gallery on the north bank of the Neris river. It’s so weirdly empty of visitors that you’ll feel you’re being given a private tour. And the restaurant is excellent. Address: Konstitucijos prospektas (037 052 195 965)