GREAT SCOT! THESE RAILWAYS ARE BONNIE
The political scene in Scotland is not a pretty sight while Nicola Sturgeon and Alex Salmond slug it out. But it’s a different matter on the railways north of the border, where one superlative follows another.
Indeed, few countries have such a sensational variety of landscapes, seascapes and cityscapes in such a small amount of space.
The most beautiful scenic railway in the world (the West highland, as judged by a worldwide poll); the most romantic journeys (judged by me on the luxurious Caledonian Sleeper from London); the most northerly railway station in Britain and — surprisingly to some — the most westerly (Thurso and Arisaig respectively) for example.
So here’s a quick guide, taken from my new book on Scottish railways, for when Ms Sturgeon waves the green flag . ..
King of the world: Follow Prince Charlie on the West Highland Line
VoTed the most scenic railway line in the world — and rightly so. I have travelled every line in Britain, and many overseas: this is the king of the lot. It curls through the awesome landscape between Glasgow and Fort William — check out that fabulous horseshoe which curves into a huge valley after Upper Tyndrum.
Watch the way it conquers the impenetrable wastes and bogs of Rannoch Moor, and then climbs carefully down the side of roadless Loch Treig and follows a beautiful rivercarved gorge.
Then continue after Fort William — ideally on Britain’s most successful mainline steam service, the Jacobite — over the worldfamous (and harry Potter-starring) Glenfinnan viaduct. The stories and legends are great yarns, too: monsters in that loch, horse and cart buried in that viaduct. And for history buffs, it’s fascinating to see where Bonnie Prince Charlie’s dream started and finished. DISTANCE: 123 miles. scotrail.co.uk
Majestic landscape: Head for Skye on the Kyle line
FRoM Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh — for a bus hop across the bridge to Skye — is just lovely, and not too long, via the charming old station at dingwall and then over the top in beautifully bleak country to a sensational finale, winding along Loch Carron, with sweeping, majestic views of mountains, sea and Skye. And apart from an avalanche shelter, they somehow did it without major viaducts or tunnels. DISTANCE: 82 miles. isleofskye.com
Remote possibility: Conquer Britain’s Far North Line
TheRe’S nothing remotely like this outside Norway. It just goes from Inverness to the top, finishing in Thurso or Wick, on and on through majestic landscape — bleak moors, dramatic lochs, herons, cormorants, seals, pretty villages and lonely halts until you can stand on the coast and look at orkney, watching the chilly waters of the North Sea fighting the great waves of the Atlantic. You have conquered Britain’s most northerly railway. Fabulous. DISTANCE: 167 miles. discoverthurso.co.uk
Summit special: Sensational views on the Highland Main Line
JUST spectacular as it goes from Glasgow or edinburgh straight up the middle to Inverness. despite its name, the line creeps through the dramatic Pass of Killiecrankie on a single track, but elsewhere it soars on two magnificent mighty viaducts. It swoops past looming mountains, climbs Britain’s highest rail summit and rushes across grassy plains past famous distilleries. Splendid way to spend an afternoon. DISTANCE: 118 miles. Inverness visitor info: 01463 252401. visitscotland.com
Awe-inspiring sights: Music and ‘danger’ on the Oban branch
IF IT were not for its illustrious neighbour, the West highland, this line from Crianlarich might be judged the most beautiful of them all.
The views along Loch Awe will take your breath away and the tales about this line are terrific, too — such as the line’s own ‘rock piano’.
It’s the nickname for a bit of Victorian ingenuity that still works, a screen of tensioned wires for four miles along the Pass of Brander where looming Ben Cruachan is apt to let boulders roll down towards the railway from time to time.
They are linked to 17 old-fashioned signals which will change to ‘danger’ if a rock slides through.
It’s called Anderson’s Piano after its inventor and sounds musical as the wind hurtles through the taut wires, and like most Victorian stuff, it works fine during a power cut or when the computers are down. DISTANCE: 43 miles. explore-oban.com
From Edinburgh to Melrose: Bordering on brilliant
TRAVeL from edinburgh down the new Borders Railway to Tweedbank and stroll along the river to lovely Melrose and her elegant abbey. or up to the eildon hills, known to the Romans and a haunt — so the locals told my children — of shy wild haggises. The views are superb and the pubs in Melrose offer splendid menus. Fresh local haggis included, of course. DISTANCE: 35 miles. visitscotland.com
Take the Troon train: Visit the Ayrshire coast or Dumfries
MUCh overlooked by tourists, but known by Scots from many a summer holiday, this is lovely country inhabited by ‘oreo cows’ (belted Galloways), and dumfries is an area linked with so many great authors — Burns, J.M. Barrie, John Buchan — it has many a yarn to tell. or take the run down the coast from Troon or Ayr, through twisting valleys to seaside Stranraer.
A sleepy place now the ferries have moved to Cairnryan, but maybe not in the future if ‘Boris’s burrow’ extends the railway under the sea to Ireland. DISTANCE: 86 miles to dumfries, 72 to Stranraer. dumfries info: 01387 253862.
Scotland From the Rails: a Window Gazer’s Guide, by Benedict le Vay, is published by Bradt at £14.99.