Why there’s nothing so captivating as a cape
Sensual rather than sexy —and they cover up your arms
THE caped shoulder is a somewhat surprising trick when it comes to glamorous red-carpet dressing. But the success of this silhouette, when done superlatively, has been beautifully showcased on numerous occasions this week, from the sheath of icy white crepe worn by Kate Beckinsale to Sarah Jessica Parker in dove grey Oscar de La Renta at the premiere of And Just Like That. (Check her out on page 12.)
A cape offers the obvious advantage of shielding the upper arms, which so many women fear don’t pass the muscle tone test. And they’re a great option for winter weddings and parties, too, where extra fabric is welcome to keep the cold at bay.
But more than that, caped evening dresses have a grandeur and presence of their own. They are grown-up. They make a statement, but in a sensual rather than sexual way. And, of course, they have just the merest touch of the magical superhero about them.
Kate Beckinsale’s sleek, white Ursula dress, which she wore at the British Independent Film Awards, is another triumph for British designer Jenny Packham, who is on a fabulous roll when it comes to red-carpet glamour.
Slimly tailored, the gown reveals and disguises in perfect proportion. The fabric follows Kate’s body rather than shrouds it in a voluminous tent.
The cape detail at the shoulder is narrow and cleverly draped and — crucially — doesn’t disguise the fit of the bodice, emphasising Kate’s slim waist.
It’s the gold standard of caped gowns and follows on from another of Packham’s recent triumphs which she created for the Duchess of Cambridge’s appearance at the Bond premiere in September — a glittering, gold, Hollywood-worthy gown.
Actor and director Emerald Fennell also dazzled in a Jenny Packham midnight blue caped number when she attended the Golden Globes earlier in the year.
Packham follows in a tradition of British designers, including Bruce Oldfield and Catherine Walker, who excel at creating beautiful dresses. There’s nothing zany. Nothing that has the fashion world heralding a new coming. There’s simply immaculate, delicious glamour.
And the cape style also benefits from her deep knowledge of fabrics, of how to position those light-catching crystals and sequins to best effect.
Of course, Packham is not the only designer offering this particular style of knock-out gala gown.
A cape is one of Stella McCartney’s go-to silhouettes in her evening wear collections, which are worn by a roster of celebrity clients ranging from Olivia Colman to the Duchess of Sussex.
Nicolas Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton, who designed Bond girl Lea Seydoux’s No Time To Die premiere gown — involving a staggering 29,000 sequins and 8,800 glass beads — adores a caped shoulder, which fits into his penchant for futuristic style.
JENNIFER LAWRENCE posed in golden Dior this week, demonstrating how useful these dramatic shoulders can be for looking sensational while heavily pregnant. But a word of warning — capes can be tricky. For anyone planning to replicate the look from the many options available on the High Street, make sure the fabric drapes, not flaps.
High heels are also mandatory; you can’t be a caped crusader in a pair of trainers.
And don’t attempt the short versions — unless Batman’s Robin is your style hero.