Jackets required . . . even for the ketchup!

NeWS that london restaurant The ivy is planning a branch in Bournemouth took me back to my first visit to the original venue in the 1960s. in those days no ‘posh’ restaurant would allow any gentleman to dine unless he was wearing a jacket and tie. i decided to treat my younger brother to dinner at The ivy. it was a very warm summer’s evening and the venue was stifling. We enjoyed an aperitif but by the time our starters arrived, i was distinctly uncomfortable and decided to remove my blazer and loosen my tie — aware i was contravening the dress code. less than five minutes later i was approached by the head waiter, who said: ‘excuse me, Sir, but the lady on the table opposite objects to you dining without a jacket and i must respectfully insist that you adhere to our dress code.’ i had no option but to put on my jacket — and as i did so, caught sight of the ‘lady’ who had been affronted, enjoying my discomfiture with a barely concealed smirk. later, as my brother and i ate

our dessert, i saw the same lady, powdering her nose and adjusting her lipstick. Summoning the head waiter, i asked him to inform the lady that i objected to her applying make-up at table.

‘i can’t do that, Sir,’ he said. That evening was memorable for one other incident. My brother had ordered Sole bonne femme. Presenting us with our lovingly prepared main courses, our waiter asked if we needed anything else. ‘No thank you,’ i said.

‘Yes,’ said my brother, to my embarrassment and earning a look of disdain from the waiter. ‘May i have some tomato ketchup?’ The waiter disappeared, returning with a bottle of ketchup disguised in a crisp white napkin!