And what to do if you’re attacked...
AFTER a string of ever more shocking attacks, XL Bullies were banned in England and Wales last week under the Dangerous Dogs Act, unless owners have a valid certificate of exemption, with possession punishable by a criminal record and unlimited fine.
Yet questions remain as to how a ban will be implemented and how the dog will be defined, given its cross-breed nature. It may be a while before our streets are free of the threat they pose — or perhaps they never will be. So what can you do to defend yourself if faced with an XL Bully?
James Hare, a qualified dog trainer who teaches children how to behave around dogs, stresses that any dog has the ability to attack and we’re far more likely to get bitten by smaller breeds. But he adds that it is the size and strength of an XL Bully that gives them a stronger jaw lock and makes them more deadly.
Hare insists not all XL Bullies are dangerous, and that poor training is often to blame for their bad behaviour.
But, if you’re faced with one, it is important to first avoid eye contact. Dogs can find it quite intimidating. Teasing a dog, even playfully, in the form of unwanted prodding or touching, can provoke them.
Distracting a dog with food can help divert their attention from you. Bully dogs like cheese, chicken, ham and sausage. ‘But it depends how far through that predatory behaviour they’ve gone,’ says Hare. ‘If we’ve missed the warning signs food might not work.’
Signs that a dog has had enough and is getting stressed include yawning and lip-licking, turning their head away and turning their eyes so the whites show, known as ‘whale eye’. It leads to the lip curling, which leads to a growl and then the teeth showing.
Watch out for the position of its neck in relation to its body — if it’s lower or higher than its body, it’s likely to be relaxed, but if the two are aligned, ‘it’s got to the end of its tether, it’s a final warning,’ says Hare. ‘It’s almost like a stalking motion.’
Don’t run, because ‘it becomes a game and will heighten the dog’s intensity to attack’. Putting an object, such as a chair, between you and the dog ‘can give you more time to think about what’s coming next and manoeuvre yourself into the safest place possible’, says Hare.
He advises putting one side of your body against a wall ‘so you can keep half your body safe while trying to remove the dog’. If you or someone you are with can reach behind the dog, lifting their hind legs off the floor can throw them off balance and they won’t be able to spin and bite.
If you suspect you are about to get bitten, try wrapping any clothing around the most vulnerable part of your body, to lessen the impact. As counterintuitive as it might sound, it makes sense to offer one part of your body to the dog to protect other vulnerable areas. ‘Nobody wants to go through that pain, but if you can accept it’s going to happen and move your outer thigh, which is meatier, you’ll still have your arms free to protect your head and neck.’ If you have been bitten, don’t try to pull away from the dog’s grip ‘because it becomes a tug of war to them’. Hare advises ‘getting its collar and twisting it so it starts to block its airway. I’d never advocate choking a dog ordinarily, but in that situation, blocking the collar can help get it away from you’.
Throwing an item of clothing over the dog’s head can also distract them.