AN INSPECTOR CALLS

He pays his way... and tells it like it is

THE Gallivant at Camber Sands, East Sussex, used to be a motel called The Space — until Harry Cragoe came along and transformed it into a beach-chic, single-storey hotel with 20 rooms, a terrific bar, innovative restaurant and oodles of charm. It’s adults-only.

I’m greeted like a long-lost friend when pitching up on a blustery Tuesday evening and am upgraded because I had particularly asked for a room with a bath.

It’s a ‘ garden room’, with French windows opening on to a decking area and a garden of sorts which is shared by other rooms on that side of the building.

There’s a freshness about the decor: wood panelling, pretty Fermoie-style lampshades, muted walls but colourful headboard and a book shelf so high that you can’t reach the books — but it looks good anyway.

There’s masses of space to relax in around the central rectangular bar. The artwork here is outstanding. Women’s bathing costumes from different eras have been framed stylishly.

English wine features strongly — and expensively. My 375 ml carafe of Artelium Pinot Gris comes in at £34. I start with ‘English burrata’: the burrata’s fine but the blood orange, cardamom and radicchio overpower it. My duck leg with beetroot, spelt and pickled turnip is delicious.

Shame about the intrusive music, which is an acquired taste and is far too loud.

A free yoga session is offered at 8am the next morning. I skip that and go for a brisk walk on Camber Sands instead. What a stretch — there’s just me and one other dog walker in the distance.

Few people seem to be staying during my visit, however bagging a room in high summer is a different matter. And a lot more expensive.

Expect to pay close to £400 for the smallest category and there’s a twonight minimum at weekends.

The Gallivant New Lydd Road Camber TN31 7RB 01797 225057, thegallivant.co.uk Doubles from £215, B&B ★★★★I