Daily Mirror (Northern Ireland)
The acid test
IF you’ve ever watched the scene where Samantha gets a chemical peel in Sex and the City, you probably avoid anything to do with acids like the plague.
But cosmetic consultant Dr Rabia Malik wants to put you at ease.
“Peels are not as they were in the 80s and 90s,” she explains. “They are very effective and underrated. What we use has become far more refined. Next generation acids do so much more than exfoliate. They can erase sun damage, plump out wrinkles and banish acne.”
With that in mind we asked Dr Malik for an acids masterclass.
Salicylic: Best for acne
Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and it can help prevent clogging in the pores and regulate oil production.
A Clinical Therapeutics study showed it was great for reducing breakouts.
“Salicylic acid penetrates into the sebaceous glands,” Dr Malik explains. “It helps regulate sebum production and dissolves the ‘glue’ that holds dead skin cells together.
“But it can be quite drying and is generally recommended if you have very oily skin.”
Cosmedix Purity Clean Exfoliating Cleanser, £29.50 for 150ml, strawberrynet.com. Or Malin and Goetz Salicylic Gel, £19 for 15ml, spacenk.com
Mandelic: Best for wrinkles
This acid is derived from bitter almonds. Research in Cosmetic Dermatology showed it was as effective as glycolic for treating sun damage, but it’s far gentler than other alpha hydroxy acids.
“Mandelic peels can help with fine lines as it stimulates collagen production,” Dr Malik explains. “Not only does it exfoliate the top layer of skin, but it encourages a new layer of skin cells to grow.”
Philosophy Microdelivery
Peel, £59.50, johnlewis.com. Or Pixi Peel and Polish, £24, available at lookfantastic.com
Hyaluronic: Best for hydration
“Hyaluronic acid is a sugar molecule found in connective tissue in the joints and skin,” Dr Malik explains.
“It retains more than 1,000 times its weight in water, making it the ultimate hydrator. As we age, hyaluronic acid production declines but you can use topical forms instead. It helps draw water to your cells, rehydrating them.”
It pops up in everything from foundations to lipsticks.
La Roche-posay Hyalub5 Hyaluronic Acid Serum, £37 for 30ml, boots.com. Or Super Facialist Hyaluronic Acid Firming Intense Facial Serum, £16 for 30ml, sainsburys.co.uk
Lactic: Best all rounder
A lactic acid peel clears out toxins, dead cells and debris.
“It can also boost collagen production and hydrate the skin,” Dr Malik explains.
“It’s an alpha-hydroxy acid and it’s a good pick even for sensitive skin as it tends to be less irritating.
“It’s as mild as lactic acid, is derived from milk and it can even out skin tone and help improve hyper pigmentation of the skin.”
Elemis Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Pads, £39 for 60, elemis.com. Or Eucerin Dermo Pure Scrub, £9.80 for 100ml, cocooncenter.co.uk
Polyhydroxy: Best for sun exposure
Polyhydroxy acids or PHAS can be used by people with conditions such as rosacea and dermatitis.
Dermatologic Surgery research shows it can protect cells from ageaccelerating free radicals caused by the sun. Look for gluconolactone and lactobionic on the label.
Neostrata Bio-hydrating Cream, £28.99, 40g, skinoracle.com. Or
Zelens PHA+ Bio Peel Resurfacing Facial Pads, £65 for 50, johnlewis.com
Retinoic: Best for a new face
“Retinol is a vitamin A derivative,” Dr Malik says. “When absorbed by cells it turns into retinoic acid and can get excellent results with problems including wrinkles and acne.”
Research in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology says it can strengthen blood vessels, boosting flow to the skin’s surface. It stimulates cell renewal and gets rid of acne. “But it can cause irritation if not used correctly, so it’s not for beginners,” Dr Malik says.
Indeed Labs Retinol Reface, £15.99 for 30ml, asos.com. Or Tata Harper Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil, £43 for 10ml, cultbeauty.co.uk
Ascorbic: Best for brightening
“Ascorbic acid is a form of vitamin C,” says Dr Malik. “This is the superstar as it’s pure. Some other forms are derivatives and not as powerful.” It’s a great antioxidant capable of neutralising free radical damage caused by pollution and the sun’s UV rays. But it is also essential for the synthesis of collagen, which gives your skin its bounce. “Vitamin C can brighten skin and improve elasticity,” Dr Malik explains. Kiehl’s Powerful-strength Line-reducing Concentrate, £49.40 for 50ml, kiehls.co.uk. Or Exuviance AF Vitamin C20 Serum Capsules, £59 for 60, dermacaredirect.co.uk