Vicky Lissaman
THE clanking of wind chimes and crashing of cymbals provide a spooky soundtrack to our journey across the dark and desolate landscape. As our bus snakes around hairpin bends and edges between gaps in rocks, there are very few signs of life in the lava fields of the Timanfaya National Park, covering almost a quarter of the island of Lanzarote.
We’re on a tour of its famous Lunar Route and, via a commentary on a CD played through the coach speakers, we learn how hundreds of volcanoes erupted here in the 1730s, causing its population to flee and its once-fertile land to become scorched.
The spine-tingling musical interludes add to the eeriness of the experience – and the feeling that we’re trespassing on the set of a Doctor Who series from the 1970s.
After stopping off at a couple of vantage points to take photos, we head to the circular El Diablo restaurant designed by Lanzarote’s most famous artist, Cesar Manrique.
But before we go in, a park ranger demonstrates just how hot the ground still is here, picking up gravel-sized lava and placing it in our hands. We can only bear to hold it for a few seconds.
Next he takes some dry twigs and stuffs them into a shallow pit. Moments later they are on fire.
Finally, he pours a bucket of water into a small hole in the ground. After five seconds spent wondering what’s going on, there’s a loud bang before the water whooshes back out again in a steaming fountain.
The excursion includes dinner in the restaurant overlooking the nowdormant volcanoes as the sun sets over the Atlantic.
Cava, sangria and salad starters kick things off, before each table is called to the huge, circular barbecue built into the rocks, where Spanish sausages for the main course are sizzled over the geothermal heat.
A final party-piece then heralds the arrival of the dessert. The lights go down and, out of the darkness, the chef emerges wheeling a flaming volcano cake on a trolley through the diners, who queue up to take selfies with it.
This trip is one of the highlights of our week of winter sun on this intriguing Canary Island. Who knew volcanoes could be this much fun?
Our base for the holiday is TUI Family Life Flamingo Beach in Playa