Jerry Lawton

PRowling so spellbound it gave her the inspiration for Harry Potter. The author spent 18 months teaching English in Portugal’s second city as she penned the first chapters of debut Potter novel The Philosopher’s Stone.

This colourful, coastal gem is also home of the rather mysterious “pass-itto-the-left” port wine. A drink we Brits crack open at Christmas when the Stilton comes out, Porto natives, or Tripeiros, are baffled by this and sup it every day.

A cruise along the Douro River from Porto through the heart of the port winegrowing territory to the Spanish border provided the perfect opportunity to sample the drink and check out the region’s impact on our favourite wizard.

I was on the maiden voyage of Frenchowned firm CroisiEurope’s newest ship, named after legendary Portuguese Fado folk singer Amalia Rodrigues.

As we set sail I could barely believe we were moving, so smooth was the passage, and the difference between river and sea cruises became apparent.

While ocean-going ships boast casinos and theatres to keep passengers entertained on sea days, their river equivalents have no need for such distractions.

The vessels are much smaller so they can pass under bridges and navigate shallow inland waterways. Our 24/7 entertainment came courtesy of the river

HISTORIC The first Potter, and a Porto lane bank as we sailed along the Douro, admiring the pretty villages, marinas and vineyards on the steep shoreline.

All beds in Amalia’s 58 cabins face outwards so you can take in the “moving wallpaper” as you relax.

The luxury cabins have highspeed wi-fi, air conditioning, ensuite shower rooms, balconies and TVs which drop down from the ceiling.

The vessel has a panoramic sun deck with a swimming pool, a lounge bar where visiting musicians and dancers performed nightly, and a restaurant. All food and drink is included, making it exceptional value – and fun.

The only thing that disturbed our plain sailing was navigating the locks that raised the ship as the river rises inland. Passing one each day, my first experience was particularly breathtaking. The