The chippies are down
Great British food tradition caught between a rock and a hard plaice
On the breeze that flutters the Union flag bunting above John Molnar’s counter in The Cod’s Scallops wafts a smell that’s just as British as the red, white and blue. Salt and vinegar on hot battered fish and fat chips.
But sadly, the nation’s chippy tea is bobbing in tumultuous seas.
The National Federation of Fish Friers has warned that a third of chippies – about 3,000 – could close within six months if action isn’t taken to help them deal with soaring costs.
It was National Fish and Chip Day yesterday, and The Cod’s Scallops – officially serving some of the best fish and chips in Britain – was a great place to mark the occasion.
And what better time than the celebratory week of the Platinum Jubilee?
Chef and owner John, 50, says of fish and chips: “Cooked well and served with great ingredients, it’s as good as a Michelin-starred meal.”
But the industry is being brought to its knees by domestic and world forces. There have been huge hikes in fish prices, primarily cod, and it could get worse very soon.
After Vladimir Putin’s invasion of Ukraine, the UK imposed a 35% tariff on certain goods from Russia – with whitefish expected to be included in the coming weeks. Vinegar is already subject to the extra tax.
There is also a cooking oil shortage. Ukraine produced 90% of our sunflower oil, and the knock-on has driven up the cost of other oils. Meanwhile, customers feeling the pinch are treating themselves less frequently.
Speaking in Nottingham in the newest of his six branches, John says: “It would be heartbreaking if a third of chip shops had to close.
“This is our iconic dish, it must be supported and celebrated through these rough seas.”
Relatively speaking, his chippy is doing very well, but John admits his profit is down 30%.
Batter ingredients are 10% more expensive. His cod bill is up 45%, oil is 48% dearer, and peas have doubled in price thanks partly to a bad crop. His utility bills have more than doubled and he is “petrified” about further rises. He has had to put the price of cod and chips up 50p to £8, and customers are now more likely to come in fortnightly than weekly. John fears it could become monthly.
He says: “It’s worrying, but I’m trying to stay positive and keep wastage to a minimum.”
He also diversifies, serving a variety of cheaper fish such as hake.
He suggests the Government acts in a variety of ways. John says: “VAT going back up to 20% was too much too soon. If that was staggered and was to stay at 10% for a while that would really help any business.”
The industry agrees that lower VAT would stimulate growth.
NFFF president Andrew Crook says: “We don’t want a hand out. We are a very proud industry – we just want a fair system.”