Stay Seine
Aidan McCartney unwinds on a very personal Paris and Medieval France barge break
With a glass of fine Burgundy in hand and a tempting assortment of Loire Valley cheeses to choose from, I can’t help but feel time slowing down.
I’m sitting out on the sun deck of MS Deborah, a 22-passenger boat, watching the pretty waterways of northern France unfold. The embrace of the warm afternoon sun and gentle sway of the boat melt away the worries of modern life.
This luxurious barge voyage, a six-day journey with English Holiday Cruises on its Paris and Medieval France Cruise, offers a trip where the tranquil rhythms of the River Seine and River Yonne guides us into the heart of Paris.
For my partner Manjeet and I, this break along the “backroads” of France offered the chance to escape the daily grind and truly immerse ourselves in the country’s lifestyle.
Our Plus Package voyage began on Eurostar, whisking us away from London St Pancras to Paris.
Our home for the first two nights – a sort of pre-cruise mini break to get you in the mood – was the Villa Montparnasse, centrally located at Rue Boulard.
This four-star hotel offered refined elegance with tasteful decor and modern amenities.
We woke up to freshly baked pastries and other enticing French delicacies, setting us up for strolling and sightseeing around the city.
During our two nights there, we visited attractions such as the Louvre, then, hand in hand, meandered along the banks of the Seine, cherishing the quiet moments. An evening visit to the steps of the Sacre-Coeur with its view over the illuminated City of Lights was magical.
Suitably relaxed and into the holiday swing, it was soon time to set off on the next chapter of our French odyssey.
After a coach transfer to Sens, we were welcomed on board the 128ft MS Deborah, operated by Croisi-Europe, by captain Emmanuel.
We soon sensed the promise of a serene 87-mile voyage – an opportunity to discover some of the hidden wonders of ‘‘douce France” in a different way.
MS Deborah had an air of sophistication and modern comfort that set the stage for pure relaxation.
Our life on board was filled with complimentary drinks, spacious, climatecontrolled en suite cabins and a roof deck terrace perfect for basking in the sun. There was even a hot tub on the bow.
Plus with a smaller number of passengers on board than the bigger ships, we were given a more personalised and enriching experience.
Throughout the journey, the seven members of the onboard crew were so friendly and helpful, with our host Joana always on hand to help with any request.
Our six days on board unfolded into a soothing pattern of sightseeing on shore interspersed with locally sourced French cuisine produced by chef Jonathan in the communal dining room.
Four-course lunches plus cheeses were paired with a wonderful selection of white, red and rosé wines tailored to each dish. As the sun began to set, we enjoyed a three-course spectacle. The attentive service from waitress Michelle added to the dining experience.
A standout of the French gastronomy gems on offer was the smoked salmon with horseradish quenelle and crisped toast, followed by the piece de resistance: filet mignon of pork encased in delicate pastry. And to conclude – a classic French creme brulee. Beyond the daily indulgence of food and wine, we filled up on culture thanks to five well-organised guided excursions which allowed us to explore some of France’s finest architectural landmarks and historically significant sites.
Our first day began with a leisurely stroll into the city of Sens, where medieval and Renaissance-style architecture provided a vivid backdrop.
The highlight was the Cathedrale Saint-Etienne de Sens, and its stunning stained glass windows.
At an early lunchtime wine-tasting session we got to savour the flavours of the region’s vineyards before setting sail to Montereau-Fault-Yonne. A peaceful morning voyage along the charming lock-filled river was followed by a brief coach journey with our friendly driver for the week, Pascal, to the captivating medieval town of Provins.
This UNESCO world heritage site is steeped in history and romance.
We wandered through its winding streets and around 12th-century fortified walls accompanied by a knowledgeable tour guide.
A rose honey tasting session within the enchanting Rose Garden brought a surprise twist to the day.
No journey along the Seine would be complete without a visit to one of the finest palaces in France, the Palace of Fontainebleau. Its lavish halls and meticulously maintained gardens were jaw-dropping, and our guide shared the secrets of times gone by.
But the pinnacle of our voyage was our visit to the majestic 17th-century Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte, a testament to the grandeur of French architecture masterminded by Nicolas Fouquet. As we walked through its exquisite halls and elegant gardens, we were transported back to a more refined age.
Our journey concluded with a coach journey to the arty village of Barbizon, tucked along the western edge of Fontainebleau Forest.
We learned about the rich heritage of the 19th century Barbizon painting school, and marvelled at the landscapes that inspired countless masterpieces.
This was followed by a visit to the Auberge Ganne, a museum that houses the works of the era’s most renowned landscape artists.
An enchanting gala dinner awaited us back on the boat – a grand finale created by the dedicated crew.
As we sailed along the Seine, heading towards the heart of Paris, sunset painted the city’s landmarks with a golden glow.
And for a fabulously French farewell, our final mooring spot was perfectly positioned to take in the splendour of the Eiffel Tower illuminated against the night sky.
Magnifique!
‘‘ Discovering wonders in a new way on a serene 87 mile journey
‘‘
Rose honey tasting session brought a twist to the day