THRILL OF THE CHASE THE CHASE
Safari trip gives you a close-up view of lions on the prowl in Kenya’s plains.. almost too close but it’s magical
SITTING in an open-sided jeep, 10-feet from a lion trying to sneak up on a wildebeest, is an interesting experience.
It’s breathtaking and tense – but what it isn’t, is harmful to the animals or their precious environment in this beautiful part of Kenya.
We were in the Ol Kinyei conservancy, founded in 2005, and designed for the mutual benefit of the animals, the local communities, businesses and tourists.
Even though our vehicle was open and we had no armed guard, we felt safe.
Our expert guides assured us the 4x4 just seems like a moving bush to the animals – and that attacks on tourists are unheard of.
Located in the famous Maasai Mara National Reserve, we flew in on a 12-seater aircraft and within 24 hours of arriving, we’d spotted elephants, zebra, giraffe and hippos as well as the aforementioned lions and wildebeest.
Less recognisable specimens were Defassa Waterbuck (a large antelope), Kirk’s Dik Dik (a small antelope) and a Bush Hyrax (a small tree-dwelling mammal).
Even with the most obscure of creatures, we knew exactly what we were looking at thanks to our guides, Jacob and Nelson – genuine Maasai tribesmen who could identify a bird or animal before we’d even spotted it.
Their job is a prestigious one and potential recruits spend a year in full-time education, often sponsored by a tourism or ecology group, in preparation.
As evening fell on the Mara, we enjoyed a sundowner - nibbles with a beer, G&T or glass of wine while the sun set on the beautiful landscape.
We stayed at Porini Cheetah Camp, which only took its first guests in June. And don’t let the term “camp” suggest rusty cooking stoves and dodgy sanitation.
This is extremely comfortable accommodation – glamping, you could say – with proper en suite bathrooms and hot showers in each tent.
Dinner after a hard day’s big-game spotting is hosted by the directors, the gregarious and engaging Nirmalya and Jui Banerjee.
Passionate wildlife fans, the couple gave up their jobs to open the camp and enjoy passing on their expertise to guests. The camp’s food is delicious and features touches such as bread freshly baked in a charcoal oven.
Nirmalya formerly worked in telecoms – and knows people don’t like to be without their internet connection nowadays, even in the Kenyan bush.
He has, therefore, arranged the construction of a small transmitter – carefully disguised among trees nearby – to enable guests’ access to wi-fi in this most remote of locations.
This is a country which is going
places and the tourism board have come up with a new slogan – Magical Kenya – to try to symbolise this special place.
We flew north to experience a different side to Kenya and stayed in luxury thatched huts at Rusinga Island Lodge on the shore of Lake Victoria.
The temperatures are hot, but not unbearably so, and visitors can kayak or fish in the lake or maybe just go for a swim or massage at the resort’s spa and outdoor pool.
Returning to the capital Nairobi, we took a one-hour flight east to Mombasa, Kenya’s second city, on the Indian Ocean.
Here, we stayed at the Severin Sea Lodge where, despite the beautiful accommodation and location, a beer (go for local favourite Tusker) costs about £2.60 and a glass of wine about £3.30. A latte in the upmarket Nakumatt shopping mall in Mombasa was about £1.50.
A visit to the city’s famous Fort Jesus, a World Heritage site, offers a fascinating insight into the area’s history as well as dramatic views over the ocean.
Designed to protect the old port of Mombasa, it was built in the 1590s and is superbly preserved. Weaponry added over the centuries included heavy cannons from Scotland’s Carron Company ironworks, which are still present and in fine condition today.
Indeed, Kenya has much in common with the UK, whose colonial rule came to an end just over 50 years ago.
Cars drive on the left, plug sockets are the same in both countries and, despite being thousands of miles away, it’s only two hours ahead of the UK.
The animals are, of course, Kenya’s star attraction and, with a little luck, you should be able to see the big five – buffalo, elephant, leopard, lion and rhinoceros.
Our close encounter with a marauding lion was memorable and, for the record, the wildebeest got away on this occasion.
It rejoined a herd which took an unexpected turn away from the lions and, in doing so, secured its survival – for another day at least.
Observing this from yards away was a once or twice in a lifetime experience and a true highlight of time spent in this most magical of countries.