MARVEL AT ITS BEAUTAY
Queen Victoria loved Kenmore – and nothing beats being treated like royalty in breath-taking Highland village
KENMORE in the Highlands is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. But don’t just take my word for it. Queen Victoria loved the place and we know how difficult it was to keep that particular monarch amused.
The Victorian era saw the rapid expansion of the British Empire, but the Empress of India was just as keen to expand at home.
One of her more bizarre ventures was to have her own private island built in Loch Tay where she could go for picnics.
It’s easy to see why the virtuous queen was so taken with the pure beauty of this place.
It wears every season well, green and vibrant in the spring and summer, golden and breathtaking in the autumn and winter.
For such a small village, it never ceases to amaze me how good it feels to be in Kenmore.
Its advantage is that it feels like its in the middle of nowhere without really being in the middle of nowhere.
There is an adventure around every corner and places of interest are never too far away.
It’s an extremely pleasant two-hour journey from Glasgow and Edinburgh and the 16th century village sits at the point where the River Tay flows into stunning Loch Tay. We spent a wonderful three days in luxury – for a change. And what luxury.
We “camped” ourselves in the 160-acre family-run Mains of Taymouth Country Estate in one of the finest Highland holiday homes you’ll ever see.
The estate, which also has its own golf course, is made up of a series of beautifully appointed cottages, mews houses, apartments and a country farmhouse, which sleeps 12.
Our home for the weekend was in Mains Park Court, a favourite of the staff when they get a chance to treat their families to a holiday together. And we soon found out why.
The five-bedroom holiday home really is a stand-out.
The property is fitted with all the latest gadgets and comes complete with a hot tub, Finnish sauna cabin and pool table.
Tastefully decorated, Mains Park Court manages to be modern and airy while holding on to a cosy cottage comfort.
The open-plan living area, dining room and large kitchen are separated by a centre-piece wood-burning stove. A spiral staircase at one end of the living room leads to a mezzanine level where the kids spent hours playing the Wii games console.
Every room is en-suite and the master bedroom is a magnificent space with spectacular views over the surrounding hills.
The site is a stone throw from The Courtyard restaurant, brasserie and bar, ideal for afternoon snacks and drinks.
During the trip, I dusted off my old golf clubs to have a hack around the Mains of Taymouth nine-hole course.
In cracking condition, the course
is enough of a test to stay interesting without being so demanding you wish you had hit the 10th, or 19th, a lot sooner.
The riding stables, run by Kerry Orr, offers lessons for children as young as four and there are horses suitable for trekking, hacking and stabling. Visitors can also stable their own horses during their stay.
If you’re looking to get out and about, Highland Safaris, based in the inappropriately named Dull between Aberfeldy and Kenmore, is a must visit, too, particularly if you are in a family group.
With plenty for kids to do, including gold panning, the Red Deer experience is great fun and lets everyone get up close and personal with the park’s resident herd.
Once we’d fed the dominant stag and his harem, it was time to feed ourselves, the cafe serving up top quality grub and refreshments.
Elsewhere, the town of Aberfeldy is just six miles away and Pitlochry a 35-minute drive, about 20 miles.
Aberfeldy has surprisingly good shopping and plenty of places to eat and drink, as well as its own cinema. Just don’t expect a choice of movies.
The Birks of Aberfeldy, where Robert Burns wrote his song of the same name, is a spectacular country walk on the edge of town.
A bit of a huff and puff up the various gushing falls as you ascend the gorge of Moness, it’s well worth the effort when you reach and walk across Upper Moness Falls.
I would also recommend a visit to Killiecrankie visitor centre just 10 minutes up the road.
There, you will witness the impossible-to-believe Soldier’s Leap, where a Redcoat soldier allegedly leapt 18ft over the River Garry fleeing the Jacobites during the Battle of Killiecrankie in 1689.
But you don’t have to travel too far if walking is your thing as there are plenty of beautiful walks right on your doorstep.
The Drummond Hill and Black Rock is a personal favourite, with some spectacular views on the way.
Loch Tay also offers something for everyone, whether it’s pleasure cruising or just watching the wildlife from the small but perfectly formed Kenmore shingle beach.
When we arrived at Mains of Taymouth, my 10-year-old Daisy said she never wanted to leave.
She hadn’t changed her mind three days later.
We can’t wait to go back.