Grab a pizza the action in Naples
OPENING a door in Naples is a form of time travel. Nondescript entrances in side streets lead into Baroque masterpieces. Shops are tucked under medieval arches and houses tunnel into Roman remains.
Everything is built layer upon layer of history, up and down the hills leading to the sea and stunning views of Capri.
The city is bursting with energy and there’s noise everywhere – don’t expect to stand still for a moment without getting sucked into a conversation, whether you speak Italian or not.
The city centre is great to explore on foot from the old Centro Antico down to the harbour and Chiaia.
But the best place to start is down below. The Naples Underground tour (napolisotterranea.org, €10) takes you from ancient caves to a Roman theatre criss-crossed by someone’s kitchen and a B&B, right up to the tunnels where people hid in World War II.
For the best of Baroque, head to the Sansevero Chapel (museosansevero.it/en €7). And the National Archaeological Museum (museoarcheologiconapoli.it, €12) is well worth a visit, where 2000-year-old paintings look as fresh as if they were done yesterday.
If Naples itself is not enough, the area is surrounded by lost Roman cities and you can catch a train from the main station to see Pompeii and Herculaneum, to the east.
Both were destroyed by the same volcano at the same time, but with different results.
The people of Pompeii had warning – days of falling ash before it was finally buried. Today, much of the city has been dug up – from the vast forum to takeaway food shops, the amphitheatre, baths and wall paintings of sumptuous villas (pompeiisites.org, €13). It is huge – a mind-blowing day out.
The smaller Herculaneum is, if anything, more chilling.
People had just a few hours warning from Vesuvius before a wall of 400C heat killed them instantly.
As a result the city is better preserved – down to the wooden doors and shutters, and even casts of people’s bodies as they tried to flee (pompeiisites. org, €11). Most of it is still under the modern city of Ercolano. It’s eerie looking at part of a temple cut off by the wall of a modern family home.
For spectacular views, try the walk at the 4203ft top of the now dormant Vesuvius. On a clear day you can see Naples, Pompeii, Capri and the Amalfi coast.
To get there, catch the bus from Pompeii station. There is a 30-minute walk to the top, then follow the crater rim (www.parks.it, €6.50).
Naples is the home of pizza and they take it seriously – from the chewiness of the crust to the woodfire taste
Locals recommended Michele, Sorbillo and Starita for the best pizzas – but they are all good. In fact, it’s hard to find pizza that’s below par.
So feast on fantastic food and the area’s rich history for a fascinating city break.