LIFE ON THE SLEDGE
With Northern Lights, dog sled racing and top-rate entertainment on board, it’s cool to take cruise in the winter months
THE announcer urged the already cheering fans in the temporary stands to ‘‘make more noise’’.
Then suddenly the first competitor came sliding into view on the high street – standing on his custom-built sled being pulled by 14 excited husky dogs.
It was -22C and we were in Alta, northern Norway, deep in the Arctic Circle.
My wife Lois and I were on a Saga cruise which coincided with the start of Finnmarkslopet, the world’s second most famous dog race after the Iditarod in Alaska – and the longest in Europe.
It was astonishing watching the 60 competitors leave at two-minute intervals from this small town.
One would return, almost six days and 800 miles later, to be champion.
Here the mushers (dog-sled drivers) are heroes signing autographs and posing for selfies like top-flight footballers.
Of the 60 entrants, more than half were Norwegian and about a quarter from the Alta area – and rivalry is fierce.
The day following the race we joined a shore excursion to try dog sledding for ourselves. On our exhilarating 35-minute ride, guide Christian Haamer skilfully managed the team of six dogs – including two ‘‘more intelligent’’ females at the front and two hard-working larger males at the back, which ‘‘do 60 per cent of the work’’.
We sped through tracks on the banks of the river Alta – and as we raced on the ice the dogs licked the snow at the sides to get moisture.
It certainly was a different experience to my only other cruise, years back in the Mediterranean.
Our trip on the small Saga Pearl II – which carries just 449 passengers – was certainly not one for sunbathers.
Over-50s specialist Saga even give you a winter jacket. But as cold as it was, they gave us a warm, incredible experience which will live long in the memory.
After all, what other cruise could offer you the extraordinary Northern Lights as entertainment?
The day we docked in Alta, the weather was not good and there was only a 50-50 chance of seeing them – but Saga arranged for coaches to take us 50 miles away to a spot which was renowned for the aurora.
For the first hour, absolutely nothing, just a dark, dank skyline. We were given hot chocolate and home-made cakes in the local village hall before huddling around fires outside.
Suddenly, there was a gasp that went around the crowd. We turned to our left. There they were – a magical, jaw-dropping sight of leaping and falling green lights.
It went on for about 20 minutes before stopping just as suddenly – as if part of an orchestrated show.
It was certainly one of the highlights of a trip that began at our front door.
Your cruise includes a chauffeur to pick you up and take you back
home. It’s a brilliant touch and takes all the hassle out of worrying about getting to the port.
Among our stops were Tromso, Harstad and Alesund.
On most, you could walk into town from the ship – but when the centres were a little further away, Saga laid on complimentary shuttle buses.
The on-board food was exceptional.
Breakfasts included daily specials such as smoked haddock kedgeree, poached egg and curry Hollandaise and avocado and pesto.
Lunch and dinner included sirloin steaks, cooked to your liking, and unlimited wine – very good Sauvignon blanc and Chilean Merlot.
Each night there is entertainment – the pick of which on our voyage were brilliant pianist Simon Fricker and world-renowned violinist Kate Chruscicka.
Saga try to tailor their trips to tie in with local history and author Sam Hall gave a talk on how the RAF bombed and sank the German navy’s famous Tirpitz at Tromso in World War II.
His fascinating hour-long lecture also covered life on the dangerous Arctic convoys.
You might need a drink after that – and in keeping with the wartime theme, you can get a pint of Spitfire bitter on board for just £3.20. That seems like pennies in comparison to the onshore prices. I had a pint in a local bar that set me back £11.10.
Back to the Saga Pearl II, where you are offered 24-hour complimentary room service along with a free fruit bowl and bottled water.
Saga pride themselves on large numbers of returning passengers and they go out of their way to make you feel welcome.
But while the excursions were the highlight of our cruise – I think it’s only fair to point out they are not cheap.
The Northern Lights tour was included in the overall cost but the dog sledding was £249 per person. And a trip to the marvellous ice igloo hotel was £69.
The hotel is made completely out of ice and snow, with some incredible ice sculptures.
Both trips were fantastic and I would highly recommend them but you certainly need to factor in the cost when making your booking.
That said, this cruise was certainly a once-in-a-lifetime trip and would be worth every penny.
Cruising is not just for the summer, try icy cold winter ones too.
You’ll absolutely love it – sled races and all.