GO WITH THE FLOE
Having a whale of a time chilling out in the lap of luxury on a cruise amid the glaciers of Alaska
THE Wall looms before me. Its icy ramparts stretch for miles, towering 400ft. The granite-grey ice at its foot is four centuries old.
As you approach, it’s impossible not to think of Wildlings, of White Walkers, of The Night King. Such is the grip of Game of Thrones.
But this isn’t Westeros, despite Disenchantment Bay lying below. Nor is it a swords and sorcery fantasy.
This is Alaska’s mighty Hubbard Glacier, the largest tidewater glacier in North America at 76 miles long and 1200ft deep.
And it’s probably the No1 attraction on the wish list of everyone who books a cruise among the icebergs and floes up here.
Off the coast of Yakutat, 200 miles north-west of Alaska’s state capital Juneau, Hubbard splays out more than six miles wide where it meets the ocean.
The face is up to 400ft tall, and when it “calves” icebergs, as it often does, it is not uncommon for them to be the height of a four-storey building.
It’s ironic that while we all fear for the glaciers’ global warming fate, we all live for that photo when ice crashes into the sea below.
Each time an iceberg falls off Hubbard, there’s a rumble like thunder.
As we sail closer, what starts as a misty grey strip grows until, half a mile away (we’re not allowed closer) it glistens in beautiful blue and tantalising turquoise.
It’s a scene that will be repeated the next day as Star Princess sails into Glacier Bay, home of natural wonders lorded over by magical Margerie Glacier.
Our glacier cruise has sailed from Whittier on the second leg of a Princess Land & Sea package that has already seen us amid the scenic splendour of bear country in and around Denali National Park. Now we’re sailing south on the last cruise of the season before winter ice exerts its inexorable grip.
And, at each port of call, a new Alaskan adventure awaits.
In Skagway we board the White Pass Railway, one of the world’s great train journeys, winding its way from the coast along the Gold Rush trail into Canada’s Yukon. The tracks cling precariously to the mountainside.
We hang out of the open-air viewing platforms on the back of each carriage.
The border between the US and Canada is marked by a modest customs station. Our destination is Carcross, more specifically the Caribou Crossing Trading Post where we feast on barbecued chicken, potatoes and slaw, followed by doughnuts.
It’s a fascinating little place, if a little touristy. This is unforgiving country, though, and on the return we pass the graves of men killed building the railroad.
Next day, we sail into Juneau as the fog rolls in off the sea. It’s an evocative scene but a double-edged one. We meet photographer Brian Hild, who’s swapped the world’s war
zones for capturing landscapes here. He takes us to gaze out over the mighty Mildenhall Glacier but freezing fog scuppers our chances of the afternoon’s whale-watching.
Next day, after docking in Ketchikan, we set out to sea again in Captain Clay’s small fishing boat, on a mission to land the catch we’ll eat later.
The quiet, when the boat’s engines are turned off, is breathtaking. Then it’s broken suddenly, spectacularly, by a passing humpback whale.
It is absolutely THE magical moment of the two-week cruise. And we have it to ourselves. We celebrate with Denali-brewed beer from the ice bucket. It’s a day we all know we’ll never forget. That evening, the chef on Star Princess cooks our catch and serves it to us.
While our thoughts are on food, we muse over the selection of restaurants on our floating hotel. There’s Sabbatini’s, a fine dining Italian, the signature Crown Grill where they take steak seriously, the silver service Capri Dining Room, a pizzeria, ice cream parlour and a patisserie.
As we left Glacier Bay a few days back we’d dined at the Chef ’s Table, a special privilege. Star Princess also boasts a full-sized theatre, a spa, pools, a library, a coffee bar, an art gallery and any number of nightclubs and bars.
Our cabin is comfortable with all mod cons, a queen-sized bed, a sofa, chairs, wi-fi and movies on demand. The balcony is ideal for private glacier viewing or watching the dolphins that play around the ship’s bow each day.
The many members of crew and staff we meet are unfailingly pleasant. This is far removed from the traditional starchy image many mistakenly have of cruising. And, of course, that’s part of the appeal. You’re well looked after, pretty much everything is included in your fare (although, of course, premium dining, excursions, spa treatments and shopping are extra) and you have the comfort blanket of the ship to return to after each day’s exploration.
When we disembark at Vancouver, we’ve explored Alaska on land and sailed 1700 miles south from Whittier.
Along the way we’ve made new friends, ticked off several items on the travel bucket list and made memories that will last a lifetime.
What’s not to love?