Pool is lovely.. dive in
Family enjoy a breathless weekend of activities in Liverpool and find a city with a proud history and plenty to keep everyone entertained
IN A city steeped in maritime history it’s only right to spend time on the water. So what better way to kick off a stay in Liverpool than to kayak through its docklands heart?
I had to pinch myself as we paddled right into the grand Grade I-listed Albert Dock, gaining an impressive snapshot of the city’s most famous landmarks along the way.
We rolled past both cathedrals and the lofty Wheel of Liverpool, then saw the two Liver Birds, Bella and Bertie, sitting atop the historic Liver Building.
And we also admired the Museum of Liverpool, the UK’s largest new national museum for more than 100 years and one of England’s most popular outside of London.
It was a fun and unique way for the kids – Freddie, nine, Rosie, 12, 15-year-old Max and Harvey, 17 – to get a feel for the glorious city I grew up near.
Our hour-long kayak trip was with the amazing charity Liverpool Watersports Centre, based just along the River Mersey in Queens Dock (liverpoolwatersports.org.uk, kayak hire £12 adult/£7 child, lessons £17 adult/£12 child. All rates hourly).
Our guide Bren pointed out hidden gems such as the Baltic Fleet pub – once beloved of weary merchant seamen who were often chased back to sea through secret tunnels.
The kids also had a go on the centre’s aquapark, a fun inflatable water assault course (£10ppph). Nowadays, the Mersey is so clean it’s a hotspot for open swimming.
I resisted the temptation and instead enjoyed a whizz in the centre’s new Wheelyboat, a wheelchair accessible powerboat.
Afterwards, we headed back to the Albert Dock (albertdock.com). Liverpool was once one of the world’s busiest and most innovative ports but fell into dereliction when newer ship designs forced its closure in 1972.
Ambitious regeneration projects mean it’s now brimming with busy shops, museums and restaurants.
We popped into Puffle Waffle for egg puffs – a Hong Kong street food which looks like a bubbly waffle (pufflewaffle.co.uk).
Founder Kenneth Cheung serves them with various fillings and toppings. I tried a new breakfast one with bacon, egg and mozzarella and found it light but very tasty.
Harvey went for a combination of crispy chicken and maple syrup while the others opted for sweet versions including Nutella, banana and chocolate drops. Stellar.
It’s the perfect time to visit Liverpool as it’s marking a decade since its European Capital of Culture title with a bumper year of events. One of the biggies is the World Museum’s Terracotta Warriors exhibition (liverpool museums.org.uk/terracotta warriors, £14.50 adult/ £5.50 child 6-17 years/free under fives, on until October 28).
The 2000-year-old, lifesize clay figures on show are part of a huge haul discovered by farmers in 1974 in one of the most amazing archaeological finds ever.
We stayed a few minutes’ walk away at the lovely Richmond Apart-hotel, situated in a Grade II-listed building. The five of us had
a spacious open-plan suite with two bedroom areas, a small kitchen with fridge, cooker and hob, two beautiful bathrooms and a lounge.
It was a real home-from-home, giving us the chance to spread out and relax while enjoying luxurious hotel perks like friendly staff and a hearty buffet breakfast.
We walked back to Albert Dock for dinner at Revolution, part of a small restaurant chain, each with its own character and menu variations.
Its Albert Dock branch has a sophisticated Manhattan loft-style vibe and, as we watched the lights tinkling on the Mersey, I couldn’t resist sampling the cocktails they’re renowned for (revolution-bars.co.uk/ bar/liverpool-albert-dock).
Their most popular homespun one is Gin ’n’ Juice – gin served with elderflower liqueur and strawberry puree. It tasted like sherbet and went down far, far too easily.
Food-wise, I thoroughly enjoyed the Sri Lankan chicken curry with its creamy coconut and tomato sauce and sticky jasmine rice.
Rosie had fish and chips while the three boys wolfed down burgers. Harvey’s Smokin’ Bacon one came topped with – wait for it – Wotsits. Liverpool is great for families because it’s compact enough to explore on foot. For panoramic views, it’s worth the climb up the 311ft tower of the imposing Anglican Cathedral – Britain’s largest.
It’s accessed via two lifts and 108 stairs which take you past the world’s highest and heaviest bell chamber (liverpoolcathedral.org.uk/entry is free but family Tower Experience tickets cost £15).
On our final morning we headed back to Albert Dock – if you hadn’t already realised, we really liked it there – and to its longest-running restaurant, What’s Cooking, for a late breakfast.
Their avocado brunch looked too good to miss (whats-cooking.co.uk). I wasn’t wrong – the avocado, complemented by scrambled egg and crisp bacon on a toasted bloomer, melted in my mouth.
The kids’ maple syrup-topped buttermilk pancakes, super berry granola, big breakfast wrap and bacon butties all went down a treat.
As a local pop group who had a bit of success so nearly sang... Liverpool, we love you yeah, yeah, yeah.