DUBAI travel AND MIGHTY
Paul Jeeves is blown away by the past, present and future of spectacular metropolis
SLIDE ON Aquaventure Waterpark at Atlantis
A GLITTERING playground of space-age innovation, Dubai never stops dreaming up new ways to grab the limelight.
At the forefront of futuristic vision, it has the world’s tallest building and biggest shopping mall, palm-shaped islands, theme parks, water parks and ski slopes with real snow in the desert.
With an ever-increasing number of visitors spending large amounts of cash, ambition and investment have certainly paid off for the secondlargest emirate in the UAE, with the country now back on the Government’s coronavirus safe travel corridor.
But beneath the glamour of this pulsating metropolis, there remains a small but significant heartbeat of the Bedouin culture that has existed since transient tribesmen settled on the coast and developed a fishing village in the early 18th century.
As global influences flood their surroundings, these proud Emirati people are battling hard to ensure they don’t become a forgotten part of their city’s rapid rise. Accounting for less than 10 per cent of the population, their story represents hidden gems on the tourist trail of this fascinating part of the Arabian Peninsula.
Most of the construction in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood took place in the 20th century but, beneath the sound of the call to prayers, a real sense of history prevails among the sandstone architecture.
In order to get a grip on the unique lifestyle of the Bedouin people, I headed for a traditional banquet at the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding in the old town. Sitting on cushions in a traditional indoor courtyard, an abundance of silver platters were laid before our group stacked with ricebased chicken, lamb and vegetarian dishes named machboos. We eagerly tucked in while enjoying conversation with our hosts about their ancient culture and how it has adapted to the world around them.
After enjoying syrup- soaked doughnut desserts, we were given the chance to play dressing up in Emirati attire – great for that holiday selfie.
Next we set off to explore the fascinating back alleys where courtyard cafes, a coffee museum and art galleries take you by surprise. The atmosphere is relaxed and absorbing – a complete contrast to the hive of activity after catching an abra (wooden motor boat) across the Creek to the spice, textile and gold souks of Bur Dubai and Deira.
These bustling markets are filled with the incessant quick-witted traders’ banter.
Completely different in vibe is the uber-cool Alserkal Avenue, where the warehouses have been transformed into contemporary art installations, micro museums, a chocolate factory and an art-house cinema.
We booked a desert safari experience, which started with some dune-buggying, before taking a rather more refined mode of transport to reach the traditional Al Marmoom camp – camels.
While the journey was a delightful experience, my inner thighs told me the 40-minute trek was ample time to enjoy the highlights.
At the camp we took part in coffeemaking and henna art.
Our host Ali, a former sports channel commentator, told us: “Because we have so many people coming to live here, there is a danger the past will be forgotten. It is vital
We were given the chance to dress up in Emirate attire – great for that holiday selfie
people who grew up in the Bedouin culture are the ones who accurately keep our history alive.”
We enjoyed a dancing display before another Bedouin-style feast was laid before us, followed by hookah.
As night fell and the searing heat vanished, we wrapped up in blankets for an astronomy show that reveals how the stars provided maps for the people of the desert.
Dubai’s transformation from humble fishing port to global hub was kick-started by the discovery of oil in the 60s. This enabled former ruler Sheikh Rashid to lay the foundations upon which his son, Sheikh Mohammed, created lavish tourist facilities and thriving free-trade and enterprise zones.
Impossible to miss, towering above the mass of skyscrapers, is the Burj Khalifa – at 2722ft the world’s tallest building.
Taking to the observation deck is a mind-blowing experience as the rest of the city appears Lego-size as you glance downwards.
We spent two nights at the Address Fountain Views hotel, which has an infinity pool looking out at the tower and a dining balcony that gives a perfect view of the night-time light show.
Joining the throng is a great experience in this 24-hour city. Even at 2am boutique shops remain open alongside the bars and restaurants.
For families, Aquaventure Waterpark at the Atlantis, The Palm hotel is a must. There are more than 30 flumes and slides – my personal highlight was a tube that passes through a clear viewing section in a shark tank!
An exhilarating way to get a different view of the city is to jump on board one of the selfdrive Hero OdySea vessels. These two-man boats are untippable but reach top speeds of 30mph as you cut through the waves for an unforgettable 90-minute jaunt.
A guide is on hand to assist and will take your camera to film some highoctane shots as you pass landmarks such as the Burj Al Arab hotel, Atlantis and The World islands.
So when you already have the world’s tallest building, what next? Build an even bigger one.
The billion-dollar Dubai Creek Tower, due to be completed in 2022, will have a 360-degree observation deck fo r sunset views. We enjoyed this glorious spectacle staying at the swish four-star Vida Creek Harbour hotel, on a new waterfront section, 10 minutes from downtown. The astonishing rise of Dubai as one of the world’s most prominent tourist and economic epicentres is clear after it was chosen to host Expo 2020, a showcase of how 192 countries plan to live in the future. Now postponed because of Covid-19, it is set to take place from October 1, 2021, to March 31, 2022. With its far-reaching vision and deep pockets, all eyes will be on this superlative-craving society for the next game-changer. Watch this space.
It’s vital people who grew up in the Bedouin culture are the ones who keep our history alive