Mamma Miami!
Jane Lavender is blown away by the colourful Florida city and its cool urban vibe
WITH its eyepopping art, fascinating history and a sassy social scene, Miami is undoubtedly the cool kid of the Sunshine State.
Creative, cutting edge and convivial, the “Magic City” throws its arms open to visitors who are ready to soak up its melting pot of culture and party like nowhere else on Earth.
South Beach style
The Art Deco streets of South Beach are synonymous with Miami – even the lifeguards’ huts are in keeping with the style, painted in an array of pastel shades.
Astonishingly, many of these vibrant buildings were almost destroyed by developers in the early 70s but survived thanks to the efforts of the Miami Design Preservation League.
The Lennox hotel was one of the abandoned complexes which was brought back to life thanks to a £53million renovation and reopened its doors in 2019.
Luxurious, boutique and determinedly sustainable with many green and environmentally friendly features, it has lost none of its original 30s charm. Its carefully styled interior features handmade furnishings and natural green shades. Its signature outdoor pool is in a secluded Med-style courtyard shaded with sustainably-harvested palms.
Ocean Drive itself is a living monument to Art Deco, each property with its own quirky facade, from “eyebrows” above the windows, unique signage and colour schemes.
One of the most eye-catching hotels is the Breakwater – a distinctive blue and white landmark by day which dazzles at night when the switch is flicked on its outdoor neon lights.
The most recognisable building on the strip is the former home of tragic fashion designer, Gianni Versace. The Villa Casa Casuarina is now a luxury hotel and restaurant.
For a bit of high culture in South Beach, head to the Frank Gehry-designed New World Centre. This is the home of America’s orchestral academy and almost every Saturday evening the students – some of the best young classical musicians in the world – play a concert. No need to buy a ticket.
You can join the hundreds of people who gather outside the centre with picnics to enjoy the shows on big screens for free.
Foodies should head to Time Out Market, a firm favourite of locals and tourists in South Beach. Inside, there is a choice of 12 restaurants and bars serving everything from steaks and grilled cheese to Vietnamese pho.
Cuban soul
Just west of Downtown Miami is the famous Cuban neighbourhood, Little Havana.
With 50s cars cruising the streets, Art Deco buildings and shops, bars and restaurants that have been run by the same families for generations, it is a real slice of living history.
Domino Park, on the corner of SW 8th Street, is a famous meeting spot for residents who sip coffee, chat and play dominoes, a tradition from the old country brought over to Miami and is placed firmly at its centre.
At the Ball & Chain you can sample mojitos while listening to a samba band in the sunshine. Then head across the famous Calle Ocho strip to the wonderfully named El Pub for an empanada – almost a Cuban Cornish pasty, but much spicier – and a colada coffee to perk you up.
No trip to Little Havana would be complete without a classic Cuban sandwich made up of pork, marinated in garlic and citrus juice for two days, then slowcooked and served with peppers, onion, Swiss cheese and mustard between two slabs of Cuban bread.
Bustling Brickell
Not to be confused with Downtown Miami, Brickell is one of the fastest-growing neighbourhoods, full of hot new hotels, glittering skyscrapers and an exciting cultural scene.
East Miami is Brickell’s latest luxury “lifestyle” retreat. Every room has floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized balconies, there’s a stylish 40th-floor rooftop bar, trendy pool deck, hidden tea room, tapas bar, grill restaurant, all sitting above the Brickell City Centre mall, packed with entertainment, shops and restaurants.
Just north of Brickell are two of Miami’s most exciting museums – Perez Art Museum Miami (PAMM) and the Phillip and Patricia Frost Museum of Science, which houses the multi-level Gulf Stream Aquarium as well as the Frost Planetarium. The views from the top of this futuristic building of the city and across the Biscayne Bay are incredible. To sample natural beauty, head on to the water where Miami EcoAdventures offers a very different view. On a tandem kayaking adventure, you can paddle past the city skyline, while checking out the mangroves and watching out for brown pelicans, nurse sharks and stingrays.
Art at its heart
Shaking off its industrial past to welcome creative enterprises and hot new galleries is Miami’s art district, Wynwood.
But art here isn’t all about masterpieces on stark white walls. Every building is emblazoned with a form of street art.
One of the most photographed places in the world, Wynwood Walls is an outdoor gallery created by graffiti artists and muralists and includes work by Shepard Fairey, the artist who designed Barack Obama’s famous “Hope” poster.