HAVIN’

Be transported to a different world

JOHN WARD SIPPING champagne in the extravagant dining car of the Maharajas’ Express, I felt like the star of a classic movie.

Around me well-to-do passengers ate exquisite curry dishes served on gilded plates.

And as we hurtled through the Indian countryside, I halfexpected a Poirotesque detective to rush in and tell us there had been a murder.

I was on the Indian Splendour tour from Delhi to Mumbai via some of the country’s most famous landmarks.

But as I boarded, I realised I was leaving the real India behind.

I stepped on to what is essentially a five-star hotel on wheels that seemed to stretch for miles.

It’s a far cry from the heat, poverty, chaos and constant din of car horns in India’s capital.

It was like being transported into a different world – a world once inhabited by 19th century Indian royalty, a bygone era of luxury and indulgence.

My personal butler – yes, this is one hell of a train – showed me to my ensuite cabin and we set off on our journey.

Over the next eight days we would cover 2,000 miles and see spectacular sights.

First up, though, was dinner, cooked onboard by top Indian chef John Stone.

I then got to know my fellow passengers over drinks in the Safari Bar, where barman Vijay dispensed drinks and wisdom in equal measure.

The booze fuelled great conversation and helped with getting some shuteye during what was often a bumpy ride.

But an unsettled sleep is hardly an issue when you wake up in Agra, home of the Taj Mahal.

We learned that the white marble mausoleum was commissioned in 1632 by the emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his favourite wife.

Then we posed in front of it for the customary Princess Diana-inspired pics before a trip to breathtaking Agra fort.

The Express rattled on and the next morning we arrived at Rathambore National Park where we went on safari in search of tigers.

We spent a few hours exploring the park on open-roofed trucks but sadly did not spot any.

Back on the train it was a short journey to Jaipur, known as the Pink City due to the colour of many of its buildings.

We toured the Royal Observatory and the city amid traffic chaos and noise reminiscent of Delhi.

And after our dose of the real India we were back in fantasy zone for dinner at the city palace where we rode elephants and feasted on wondrous cuisine.

The train then travelled through the night to the “deserted kingdom” of Bikaner.

We disembarked to be greeted by a band of dancers and musicians, and a red