Intoxicating mix of old and new makes GET THE HANG

DESCRIBED as “the most splendid city in the world” by Marco Polo, Hangzhou was thrust on to the world stage this year when it hosted the G20 Summit.

Its unique blend of Chinese traditions and modernity made it the ideal choice to showcase the country to global superpowers.

And it’s this intoxicating mix of old and new which also makes Hangzhou one of China’s most popular holiday hotspots.

Jetting into the city, visitors get an aerial view of the treats in store. A dazzling assortment of gleaming skyscrapers, indicating the prosperity of this ancient city, slot in seamlessly with the deep-green, forest-covered mountains dotted with colourful temples and pagodas.

On the ground, everything in the urban centre appears to be new. Shiny electric buses silently circulate the perfectly smooth, swept-clean shopping streets, which are packed MOHAMMED REZA AMIRINIA with designer stores and luxury car showrooms.

But if you want to get to its cultural heart, take to one of its many waterways. There’s West Lake with its mountainous backdrop, as well as the Grand Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Meanwhile, in the eastern part of the city, there is the Qiantang River, another vital artery. To the west, about 5km from the city centre, is the Xixi National Wetland Park, a beautiful collection of waterways and marshlands.

I took a boat trip along its narrow rivers, gliding past traditional wooden villas, shops, teahouses and galleries as well as an exhibition of dragon boats. It’s the perfect way to get an insight into what makes this city tick.

An early start next day took me to the West Lake. As I stood watching locals go about their daily exercise routines, the sweet scent of yulan magnolia hung on the breeze and I enjoyed a few minutes of solitude. One of the lake’s biggest tourist attractions, however, was just around the corner. Crowds had already gathered around the Red Carp Pond, a swirling mass of colourful fish, and I joined the group of excited onlookers on the stone bridge above, feeding them titbits to make them jump out and change direction.

Opposite the pond is Huagang Harbour where I saw more of the waterways by boat. Peppered with bridges, temples and Chinese pavilions, it also takes in the Leifeng Pagoda, an octagonal five-storey tower on Sunset Hill.

The original structure was built in the 10th Century during the Song Dynasty but it collapsed in 1924. After being rebuilt in 2002, the ruins of the old pagoda and some artefacts found during the excavation can now be seen on the first level.

Tourists can also view its beautiful interior carvings and take the lift 72 metres to the top for a panoramic view across West Lake.

To the north west is the famous