You’ll be glad to Appin upon here
I HAD wanted to visit Port Appin for many years.
But I won’t tell you how long ago it was that I first read – and was transfixed by – Robert Louis Stevenson’s Kidnapped.
The novel details the aftermath of the notorious Appin Murder of Colin Campbell, just along the road from Port Appin.
I defy anyone to read Stevenson’s description of the relentless pursuit of David Balfour through the rugged Highlands and not pencil in a visit – albeit without the accompanying ruthless Redcoats.
We also suffered the rigours of an unrelenting pursuit while getting there.
This time it was a snow and rain storm that followed us from Glasgow.
It made the drive to Port Appin both breathtakingly beautiful and slightly terrifying. And after our white-knuckle driving exertions along the A85 I was ready for a lie-down.
Fortunately, we were booked into the award-winning Airds Hotel, right, in the village. It enjoys a reputation as a romantic getaway offering mouthwatering grub.
Cheerful general manager Robert McKay showed us to our stunning suite.
Robert, who is used to weary travellers making the trek to the rural retreat, had stocked our room with a decanter of Whisky Mac to welcome us. It proved just the tonic after the drive. We were keen to explore the surrounding area but were hampered by the miserable conditions.
So we attempted a walk near the hotel (in wellies and raincoats provided by the hotel) but soon had to turn back.
The circular route is said to be a must-see in better weather.
We only glimpsed the spectacular views across Loch Linnhe, Lismore, and the
Morvern mountains before admitting defeat and seeking shelter.
Many who head here, however, do so for one reason – the food at Airds.
When we stayed, the only other guests were a young aristocratic couple en route to buy a prized Highland cow, plus a couple of retired GPs who were touring the Highlands.
They all raved about the food at Airds and we soon saw why.
The local crab and langoustine were recommended and didn’t disappoint. I then plumped for delicious Newtonmore venison, with my wife opting for monkfish.
Local cheeses completed the meal and we headed to the comfort of our room stuffed.
The next morning we enjoyed more food – this time for the “Full Airds” breakfast.
If you want to explore in better weather the hotel can offer you bikes to ride, while the ferry to Lismore is close by.
There’s also Castle Stalker, made famous by Monty Python And The Holy Grail.
It sits on its own island in Loch Laich. Robert assured me it was perfectly accessible by rowing boat, but with the rain still pelting down we opted to visit nearby Oban before heading home.
I’ll be back to Port Appin though – and I won’t need to be Kidnapped to return.