RAVEL PERFECT END
The Algarve’s wild west will blow you away
“I’M here to take you to the end of the world.” Thankfully, my taxi driver Antonio was smiling as he told me.
An hour and a half later, I stepped out of the car and discovered just how the fishing village of Sagres – on the western tip of Portugal’s Algarve – had got its nickname.
According to the legend, as the sea stretches away, monsters live just beyond the horizon before the earth drops off into a black hole.
As I stood on the towering caramel-coloured cliffs, I marvelled at the frothing Atlantic and wild landscape behind me.
Down below, in the marina, fishermen returned from an early morning trip, closely followed by a flock of seagulls.
At the beach, surfers zipped up their wetsuits ready to ride the waves.
It is also home to Cape St Vincent, the most south-westerly point in mainland Europe, where fearless fishermen hang over the edge of incredibly steep cliffs.
A gleaming lighthouse, built in
1846, is one of the brightest in
Europe but the area’s biggest attraction is the sunset view.
Every evening, crowds gather here to watch the colours drape across the huge skies.
My base for the first part of the trip was the Memmo
Baleeira, a modern, sleek, fourstar hotel that’s designed like sugar cubes, all in dazzling white.
The 144 immaculate rooms and suites come with views over the sea and Baleeira marina. Facilities include an on-site surf centre, a hilltop pool, yoga room, spa and detox programme.
However if it’s a more local feel you are after, Aldeia da
Pedralva has whitewashed villas in an old farmers’ village that was in ruins before it was extensively renovated.
There are no TVs or wi-fi in the accommodation, but the rustic interiors, twisting lanes and two authentic Portuguese restaurants will win you over.
During my stay I ate caldeirada, above – a traditional mixed seafood stew with potatoes, which came with olives, cheese and bread.
The Algarve is a popular destination year-round for walkers, thanks to its varied landscapes of cliffs, rocky paths and secluded beaches.
The Rota Vicentina is a 280-mile network of paths around the whole coastline of south-west Portugal, ranging from hour-long strolls to extended overnight excursions, all with helpful signposting.
I tried a section of the 140-mile Fishermen’s Trail, hiking six miles from Sagres to Salema Beach, winding past coastal marshes, a lagoon, up jagged cliffs and near small rocky islands.
I also took another, more inland route on an excursion led by Joao Ministro from ProActivetur, snaking through sleepy villages and pretty birdwatching spots. Portugal is the world’s leading cork producer and the trail passes acres of cork trees, too.
A 30-minute drive from Sagres is Lagos, a historic port which launched many naval voyages during Portugal’s Age of Discovery. Enclosed by 16th Century walls, there are cobbled streets and picturesque squares, and some fabulous beaches. When I arrived the town centre was full of activity, with people sipping wine under parasols outside restaurants while musicians pitched up to play their guitars.
At the 15th Century Igreja de Santa Maria, church visitors are welcome to join worshippers or watch services. Swing by the quirky sculpture of King Sebastian, who died aged 24.
His over-sized armour shows he was too young for the burden of kingship.
A short walk from the centre is the beach and marina area with lots of excursions on offer. I joined a two-hour kayaking trip to the ancient caves and grottos around Lagos that led to hidden beaches.
Out on the clear, sparkling waters, I paddled to incredible rock formations, above left, one the shape of an elephant’s head. Another is called Lovers’ Cove and it is said if you kiss your partner inside, your love will last forever.
Olhao, the largest fishing village on the Algarve, is a fascinating place to visit. If you’re up early you can watch fishermen unloading their catch before fishmongers get to work with their knives, slicing and dicing.
There are also numerous stallholders along the harbour, selling everything from eye-catching pepper and chilli garlands to cork fridge magnet souvenirs.
The salt pans are another unmissable sight in this area. They’re effectively huge outdoor chemistry labs – the ocean washes into these rectangular beds lining the coast and the water then evaporates, with the heat of the sun leaving only the salt which is then harvested by hand. But after the Algarve’s soaring cliffs and sea caves, I engaged in a simpler pleasure – slurping ice cream in golden