Wined down in California
Holidays to the USA are due to open up on November 8. Ian Sturgess enjoys the relaxed Pacific Coast mood
Hotel California rockers The Eagles may have written about Life in the Fast Lane, but if there’s one location in the Golden State to experience life in the slow lane, it’s San Luis Obispo County. Situated on the Pacific coast midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, its laid-back vibe is exemplified by its convenient abbreviation, SLO CAL.
With its beautiful beaches, world-famous wineries and historic sites, the area is well worth exploring, either as a destination in its own right or as a stopover while making the classic Pacific Coast Highway pilgrimage between California’s twin big cities.
Encircled by green hills, San Luis Obispo itself was founded in 1772 by Spanish Franciscans on land occupied by the native Chumash tribe.
The white mission chapel still stands at the centre of the low-rise town which retains a homely Hispanic feel, with no buildings higher than four storeys.
The three main streets are lined with ficus and eucalyptus trees, while independent coffee shops, craft breweries and art galleries abound, making the single token McDonald’s something of an anomaly. It can also get pretty lively thanks to the 21,000 students at the local Cal Poly university who make up half the town’s population.
Pre-pandemic, we stayed at the newly revamped Hotel Cerro which, with its exposed brickwork, vibrant local artwork and contemporary furnishings, typifies the blend of cool style and culture of SLO itself.
From its rooftop pool with views of the surrounding hills, to the outdoor “edible garden” which supplies veg for the kitchen, the attention to detail is outstanding, and no surprise when you learn that the British couple who run the place also developed Necker Island for Richard Branson.
Just outside town on Route 101 is another very different hotel, one so extraordinary it’s a tourist attraction in its own right.
Madonna Inn, opened in 1958, is a pseudo-Alpine styled confection where good taste has been replaced by chandeliers, fairy lights and excess all areas. It has 110 guest rooms, each decorated with OTT extravagance where the common theme is pink. Pink