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LATVIA Jordan to give the icy plunge pool a go and Inese encouraged me to dunk myself under as quickly as possible. I was in and out in about 0.5 seconds, but the extreme temperatures worked their magic.
As I gasped for air, I was wrapped up and guided to step on to the net hanging outside the bath house.
Cocooned in blankets and suspended on what looked like a spider’s web, I experienced the rush that the tour guide had described earlier. Tingling all over, I melted into the net as I listened to the birds and spotted calves roaming below.
Feeling relaxed, relieved, wide awake and focused solely on the nature around me, I realised why saunas are so popular here. They are a complete escape from the stresses of modern living.
I spent the night tucked up in one of the resort’s outdoor glamping rooms, watching the stars and lakes twinkle through the front wall and part of the roof, made entirely of glass. More of an individual hotel room than a camping experience, this pod came with a huge bed, cloud-like duvet, ensuite bathroom, heated floor, fridge, and terrace with loungers.
The tranquil, thoughtful mood continued in
Riga. Although it’s the largest of the three Baltic capitals, there are only 600,000 residents, so exploring the Old Town – a UNESCO world heritage site since 1997 – was a very pleasant experience.
Wandering through cobbled streets dotted with fabulous Art-Nouveau buildings and the minimalist national library on a weekday felt more like a quiet Sunday. There was no waiting around for the lift to the top of St Peter’s Church tower for panoramic views of the red roofs, Riga Bay and the Daugava River with its large port.
Riga’s Central Market, set across five former Zeppelin hangars, is Europe’s largest market. Full of flowers, farmers’ produce and traditional foods, it’s the perfect place to pick up colourful pickles or sauerkraut or sample mild Latvian cheeses coated in herbs. If
The popular saunas offer an escape from the stresses of modern living
you’re looking for a pick-me-up, the Gimlet bar is the place to go for locally sourced drinks. The cosy underground bar celebrates Nordic and Latvian flavours with cocktails featuring wild herbs, berries and fruit.
My base in the city was the eye-catching Grand Poet hotel, close to the Freedom Monument and the Latvian National Opera.
Previously the Interior Ministry, in 1991 the building was attacked and bullet holes could be seen in it until the hotel renovation began. It is now a design masterpiece – boho-meets-Art Deco-meets 60s cool – with bold prints, statement wallpaper, colour and texture used to create an amazing, glamorous space.
Stepping away from Riga, you’ll find tiny peaceful towns and forests full of birdsong. Living in harmony with nature is a big part of the culture – most Latvian surnames are types of trees or plants, as I was told by my tour guide, whose last name means oak.
Glamping options are everywhere. For something beautiful and restful, book into the wooden forest pods surrounded by lakes at Ragnar Glamp in Koknese.
They are styled with whitewashed walls, free-standing baths and oak flooring, and if you go for a wander at night you’ll discover illuminated castle ruins. One to watch is the glamping site at Erglu Station, near Ogre River Valley Nature Park, which is being built by renowned Latvian biologist and journalist Maris Olte. He has repurposed the old station building into a cafe, which is open during the summer.
I took a walk through the forest with Maris to the banks of the river where he showed me which leaves can be picked for lunch in the wild.
While traditional Latvian foods include rye bread, smoked fish, beetroot soup, potato pancakes and meatballs, one of the nation’s favourites is the “grey peas and bacon”, often eaten at Christmas.
If you’re after a restaurant recommendation, Kokos in Sigulda offers Latvian specialities and international flavours that are so good it has a helipad on site for its more famous customers.
Herbal tea is much-loved in these parts for its taste and health benefits. Often considered the national drink, Black Balsam is used to relieve colds and, from my experience, can also get you very tipsy when drunk with wine.
New family-owned Nordic tea brand Plukt is in the parish of Prauliena, in a building where CEO Mara Lieplapa’s grandparents met.
Mara and her environmental scientist mother Liga run the company which exports its goods to 14
countries. Mara offers tea workshops on the stage where her grandparents fell in love, describing the benefits of the herbs drunk as a “spa in a cup”.
When it comes to souvenirs, there is nothing more precious than something traditional and local. Latvians often have pottery displayed in their homes and master of ceramics Ugis Puzulis, based in Aluksne, creates pottery in colours reflecting the region.
In Sigulda, you can buy jewellery inspired by nature at Baltu Rotas. I picked up a few mementoes, but you can make your own, as both enterprises offer workshops.
The biggest “take home” for me, however, was more far-reaching than that. With its firm focus on health and wellbeing, love of nature and long-held traditions, Latvia is a nation that knows how to live well.