STILL ON TRACK FOR SPRING SKI
FACE down in glorious powder snow, my first attempt at off-piste skiing is a spectacular fail.
My beard is full of ice, my skis are 10 feet away from each other, but I’m smiling.
Les Saisies, a pretty resort in the French Alps, has won me over.
My adventure began on the drive from Geneva airport to this log-cabin village, which hosted the Winter Olympics back in the 90s.
The route twists and turns along a mountain stage of the Tour De France, and as the snow gets deeper, the excitement of hitting the slopes builds.
Our base for the trip is the luxury self-catering apartments of Village les Armaillis, which are brand new for 2016/17.
Each one has a swanky kitchen, dining area, lounge with large flatscreen TV, separate bed- room and private balcony. There are touches of luxury including Bluetooth speakers, a shiny coffee maker, dressing gowns and slippers, gleaming walk-in showers and a meal delivery service.
The apartments also have a vast indoor and outdoor spa area. But the biggest treat is the cylindrical sauna with circular floor-to-ceiling windows built to show off the snowy peaks of the Beaufortain Massif and Mont Bisanne.
A handy free shuttle bus stops regularly around the resort, so you’re never waiting around too long to hit the slopes. Les Saisies is perfect for beginners and intermediates, with the learner’s slope having a nifty enclosed escalator system which whisks you back to the top of the piste before you can de-mist your goggles.
Daring
For skiers looking for more of a challenge, black runs are tucked between sweeping blues, and daring reds. There’s also the off-piste challenge of La Legette as well as 140km of Nordic trails with views over Mont Blanc.
A one-day pass for the resort’s 77kms of runs is £29, but for an extra £3.40, the Espace Diamond gives you access to 190kms. If you fancy a day off from your skis, try the brand new snow sport of Snooc.
We met up with Cyril Colmet-Dâage, creator of this hilarious contraption, which is essentially one ski with a seat.
You sit on it, facing forwards, steer with your hands and brake with your feet. While some quickly get the hang of the Snooc, I unfortunately find myself careering down the mountain with all the grace of a tumbling potted plant.
An evening ride on the piste bashers is another interesting jaunt and it’s free, so book early to avoid disappointment. Alterna-
tively, ramp up the fear factor to the max on La Luge. Firing yourself down this metal-framed monster at break-neck speed is equally thrilling, terrifying and face-numbing in the icy atmosphere.
We try another fun activity on offer at Les Saisies – biathlon.
This is a combination of cross-country skiing and target practice. Our guide, Cedric, starts us off at a leisurely pace before letting us loose on the Olympic rifle range, with somewhat mixed success. A three-hour session costs £77 for three people. Harbouring a few new bruises, we regroup before heading to the Hotel Calgary. Owned by Franck Piccard, a former Olympic gold medal winning slalom skier, it offers an indulgent six-course meal including a thick and creamy mushroom soup and rare T-bone steak accompanied by carafes of smooth red wine.
For a lunch with a lovely view, try Cosy Delice.
Deep fur-lined couches coax skiers and boarders from the mountains to gobble its delectable assortment of local meats and cheeses while sipping the juicy house red.
Decent apres-ski bars include Le Copon, serving wines by the glass, Belgian beers, mulled wine, whiskys and hot chocolate. Fill up on traditional mountain fare of raclette, tartiflette, crepes and waffles. Go on Sundays when there’s live music, and check out the DJ nights.
For one last chance to drink in the gorgeous surroundings, we head to the Malabar Princess. The Savoie red wine comes highly recommended and a cheese fondue shared among friends is the perfect way to end a holiday.