Lapping it up in Finn style!
COLD COMFORT FOR BOREALIS-FREE TRIP
“NO small talk,” was the advice from my Finnish friend before setting off.
“Just a simple ‘My name is…’ and a firm handshake.”
What?! No small talk? I’m second-generation Irish for heaven’s sake - the gift of the gab is my birthright.
And so, reluctantly resolved to override urges for idle chit-chat and with a suitcase full of thermals, I flew north to Rovaniemi the capital of Finnish Lapland.
Perched on the edge of the Arctic Circle, the city is famous for being the home of Santa Claus and is as close as reality gets to a winter wonderland.
As well as the chance to meet the big man himself, the promise of seeing the Northern Lights is what draws many to this remote part of the world.
According to the Finnish Tourist board, the region is one of the best places to witness the elusive Aurora Borealis appearing on more than 200 nights of the year.
Wintry
But as we flew into Rovaniemi Airport my expectations sank. Heavy grey clouds hung all around. It’s a four-day trip, I reminded myself. It could clear up.
Nevertheless, our first stop was the Snowcastle resort in the coastal town of Kemi, a 90-minute drive away, which offered much to distract from the gloomy skies boasting an allyear-round ice restaurant, a traditional sauna as well as wintry excursions and activities.
On the shoreline of the frozen Gulf of Bothnia, newly-built luxury glass chalets face out over the vast expanse of ice.
Simply decorated in calming grey tones, the cabins are designed so that visitors can snuggle up in bed and look out over the paralysingly beautiful frozen seascape.
I was tempted to do just that but our host Noora had other plans, and after dropping off our bags she led us to a large hole cut into the 3in thick surface for a spot of “ice floating”.
Not one for outdoor pursuits I was troubled to say the least, imagining some kind of brutal SAS cold water training exercise.
Fifteen minutes later dressed in a Michelin man-style Arctic survival suit I found myself,
against all odds, peacefully bobbing about in the freezing water gazing at the sky.
I couldn’t help squinting to see if there was any sign of those dancing lights behind the cloud ...but no such luck.
Hey ho, next was another icy encounter in the resort’s Snowexperience365.
Imagine an enormous freezer with illuminated ice sculptures, an ice slide and an igloo-like bar with ice tables and benches.
After a warming mushroom
soup, we retreated to the warmth of the main restaurant to enjoy a five-course tasting menu including a stand-out dish of reindeer carpaccio with smoked lichen.
In the morning we set off on an adrenaline-pumping quad bike ride through a snowy forest.
Not for the faint-hearted but it is a thrilling way to explore the Lappish wilderness – just remember to keep your mittens on the brakes.
More than 70% of Finland is forest and, according to the
World Health Organisation, the air is the cleanest in the world.
It was also named the happiest nation on earth by the United Nations. Dashing through the snow in the freshest air surrounded by unspoilt nature, it was easy to see why.
Our next stay was the Apukka Resort. Just 10 minutes from Rovaniemi airport and located in the middle of a Narnia-style forest, it offers stylish wooden igloos with heated glass roofs for skygazing from the comfort of a warm bed. Guests craving more
luxury can stay in newly -built suites inspired by “komsio” or traditional Sami cradles.
Shaped like a “kota” Lappish teepee, the nest-like bed is located in the glass apex with a full 360-view. All cabins are a short, frosty walk from the 100-yearold wooden lodge reception, decked out with sheepskins, furs and wall-mounted antlers. It has a buffet and a la carte restaurant serving a mixture of Lappish and modern dishes as well as a bar.
In the evening you can huddle round a log fire with a glass of mulled wine and, on certain nights, enjoy a side of salmon basted in butter and roasted on the flames in front of you.
We were greeted by one of the resort’s wilderness experts also called Noora (no really) who took us out deep into the forest for an aurora hunt on Apukka’s unique snow train.
Standing around 6ft high, with a mass of blonde curls and a fearsome looking utility belt, Noora 2 cut an impressive figure as she leapt onto a snowmobile and towed us in our heated cushioned carriage.
History
Eventually we reached a large canvas kota and within minutes Noora 2 had a fire roaring.
We waited patiently with hot chocolate and cookies, but sadly those stubborn clouds showed no signs of shifting.
But it didn’t matter as Noora 2 kept us entertained with extraordinary campfire tales of survival, Finnish history and Lappish folklore. Activities include snowmobile tours and guided snowshoe hikes for the adventurous. For a slower pace guests can enjoy reindeer sleigh rides as well as a choice of modern and traditional wood-burning saunas.
For me the most memorable activity was a traditional husky ride. Expect to fall face first in the snow at least once, but once you get the knack it is the most joyful way to spend a winter’s morning.
Just before heading home I paused for one last moment in the soundless frost-kissed wilderness and understood why Finns don’t do small talk – it’s just air pollution after all.