Falling in love with surfing
AND THIS LOVELY MOROCCAN CITY
STARING out at the pounding Atlantic waves, I never thought I’d get in, let alone get close to surfing, standing up on a board.
The breakers pulsed toward me as I patted my feet in the shallows, trying to stay upright in the unrelenting wind.
Surfboard underarm, I had one thought: “Absolutely no chance.”
But fast-forward five days and I’d conquered my fear of open water and fish – and learned to surf.
Thanks to a few one-to-one lessons from some very patient instructors, I’d stood up on my bright pink beginner’s board more times than I can count and rode the waves of Africa’s windiest city.
Sitting on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, Essaouira is where the best of North Africa meets Mediterranean finery.
Its vibrant medina is surrounded by golden stone city walls which enclose the bright blue and crisp whitewashed riads and markets, with flowing djellaba robes and the smell of spices.
Influences from Arabs, Africans, Romans and the French blend together to create a buzzing, relaxed beach-side metropolis.
Formerly known as Mogador, the medina in Essaouira has been listed as a Unesco World Heritage site for its unusual mix of styles.
But unlike the medinas of other Moroccan towns and cities, walking into Essaouira’s isn’t like going into a maze, so you’ve got a pretty good chance of finding your way out again.
The medina’s narrow alleyways are lined with tall buildings, adorned with vibrant plates, tagines, and beautiful hand-woven baskets, where hundreds of locals bustle and barter with market stall owners.
While there are still plenty of twists and turns, the city is based on a French-inspired grid design which makes it a lot easier to find your way around.
The name “Es-saouira”, the locals tell me, translates as “beautifully designed”. How convenient for those of us who are navigationally challenged.
Essaouira’s liveliness bursts beyond the old city’s walls and spills on to the beach.
Surfing may seem unattainable for those of us who have done nothing more than splash about in waist-deep waters, but if you’re in pretty good shape and up for a challenge, it’s not too late to learn.
I’d booked a seven-night hotel and surf tuition package with adventure specialists Kiteworldwide. Their instructors showed me how to paddle, arch my back and pop up, but I wasn’t thinking about any of that.
Grin
All I could visualise was how much it was going to hurt when my board inevitably smacked me in the head as I got dragged under the waves as if I was in a washing machine.
But somehow I managed to do what I’d been taught, and suddenly I was up and moving, swept forward by the great hand of the sea.
With a huge grin, I paddled back out, basking inself-pride, to attempt another wave. Gnarly, dude.
After a few days, erm, mastering surfing, I tried my hand at kiting with another of Kiteworldwide’s incredible instructors. It
began with learning how to set up my kite and control it in the unrelenting winds, before taking to the water again. This is where I had my first “body drag” lesson.
Every kitesurfer must learn to control their kite from the water for when they inevitably fall off their board.
“Body drag” involves vigorously flying the kite left and right in the air while being dragged face down through the breaking waves.
“Pull left, right, left, right,” my instructor Hamza screamed after me as I swallowed another wave.
It’s every bit as scary as it sounds but after mastering this you’re ready to get on a board. It’s not for the faint-hearted and left me aching in places I didn’t know could ache, but it is exhilarating.
After all the hard work in the sea I needed to refuel. Ocean Vagabond offered the perfect setting to relax and try out the day’s freshly caught fish, and the offerings at Beach and Friends were just as good. They’re ideally located either side of Kiteworldwide’s base on the beach, so one swift unpeel of a soggy wetsuit and I was good to go.
The fun doesn’t stop when the sun goes down in Essaouira. I took the chance to try some mouthwatering local cuisine in arguably the best restaurant in the city – Umia. This family-owned place offers a seasonal, Mediterraneaninfluenced menu made with Moroccan market finds. Tucked away in the Essaouira Hills, away from the desert winds, my base for the trip, Le Jardin des Douars, provided perfectly serene surroundings to get my breath back.
There are two inviting pools set in lush gardens, plus a spa.
The rooms are coolly tiled, but also featuring lovely deep-pile rugs. Colourful local artworks adorn the walls, and my bathroom was spacious. The queen-sized beds and luxury linen provided the perfect retreat to recharge.
Flawlessly decorated in traditional Moroccan style with adobe walls, Le Jardin des Douars is a secluded gem.
It began life as a botanical garden owned by a French couple who added a house amid the riot of palm trees, cacti, flowers and ponds.
This magnificent oasis is now Belgianowned and has been run as a family-friendly hotel since 2005.
Bar
With much less wind than the coast 15km away, it provided the ultimate retreat after a long day at the beach.
All too soon it was my final night, which I spent gazing out at a glowing Moroccan sunset while enjoying live music on the roof of Taros.
It’s a bar popular with locals as well as tourists, in a charming old merchant’s house right off the main square in the middle of the medina.
I’d fallen in love with this beautiful Moroccan city and returned home with a new lease of life and the inspiration to take the leap to try something new.