50 top rosŽs from around the world

Our experts have tasted through a record 322 rosés to bring you 50 of the best available in the UK today. Elizabeth Gabay MW analyses the results

RoSE wiNE SAlES developed from the bottom up, gaining momentum due to its uncomplicated style and pretty colour. The growth in premium rosé is changing this category, as more complex wines appear. Although there were no scores above 93 in this mammoth tasting, 40 were Highly Recommended and 79 Recommended.

French premium rosé dominated, but Spain, italy and South Africa also fielded good examples. origin, however, is not a guarantor of quality or style – although Provence rosés do generally have the edge.

The best wines showed a complex range of fruit characters (strawberry, redcurrant, cherry, peach, rhubarb, pomegranate and floral notes), fresh crunchy, zesty or leafy acidity, and hints of orange peel, garrigue, herbs or a savoury note. The best displayed fruit intensity rather than neutrality.

Colour had little correlation with quality, but reflected variety and origin. A few were almost water-white, with little fruit character, suggesting that more effort had gone into appearance than taste.

As expected, a few wines had spent time in oak. The best of these were well integrated, with sufficient fruit and structure to carry the oak, but in others it was overly dominant or poorly used.

Most top scorers were from the 2015 vintage, but a few 2014s performed well. Some were obviously made to age, but a few seemed to be old stock, so be wary of buying older rosés.

This tasting shows that premium rosé can still be a shot in the dark, with quality inconsistent (63% of wines were 85 points or below). Price gives a vague indication of quality, with only one of the top 10 wines under £15. But it’s not a guarantee. Best advice: know a good wine merchant.