Six producers to watch
Akilia Mario Rovira, who has worked at Château La Fleur-Pétrus in Pomerol, is behind this label, founded in 2011. He works with Mencía and Doña Blanca, but also Palomino – which he turns into a delicate, mineral wine, K. He harvests early and produces wines with a ringing freshness.
Bodegas y Viñedos Mengoba Grégory Pérez (no relation to Raúl, below) is a Frenchman who arrived in Bierzo in 2001. Having worked at Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Cos d’Estournel and studied in Bordeaux, he was drawn to Bierzo by friendship with Ricardo Pérez Palacios and Eduardo García of Bodegas Paixar. He named his winery in honour of the grapes: MEN (Mencía) GO (Godello) and BA (for Doña Blanca, a variety he has been reviving).
Camino del Norte, Compañía de Vinos One of Raúl Pérez’s projects. This has a particular focus on Atlantic wines, a trend in northwest Spain, Portugal and the Azores. Camino del Norte refers to the name of one of the pilgrim routes across northern Spain. Though the labels say the vineyards are in Valtuille, these are not DO Bierzo wines. That’s probably because they contain a smidgeon of unpermitted varieties (including Pinot Noir).
Pagos de Nona Another 2012 project, this time from Jesús Hermida and Esmeralda Garcia. They made a name further south with their organic Finca Las Caraballas Verdejo, and are now in Bierzo. Pagos de Nona means ‘grandma’s vineyards’, referring to their work recuperating old vines in the family. Mil Razas is a fascinating blend of almost all the local varieties: Mencía, Garnacha Tintorera, Palomino, Godello, Treixadura, and other whites.
Màquina & Tabla I first spotted this producer at El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, which has twice been voted the world’s best restaurant, after requesting that they serve me new wines and surprises from Spain. The couple behind the label – winemaker Oriol Illa and Susana Pastor – started out in 2012, having sought vineyards in Bierzo, Toro and Sierra de Gredos. Their Bierzo wine, Laderas de Leonila, is delicately fresh and crisp.
Raúl Pérez Of all the producers in Bierzo, Pérez has the deepest roots (and the longest and most flourishing beard in the wine world). He still fits on this ‘one to watch’ list, due to his astonishing diversity. If there’s anything interesting in northwest Spain or northern Portugal, or beyond, then it’s very possible he’s involved. His passions take him in many directions. It’s hard to make any sense of your tasting notes after a lively session with him, but you can guarantee to have enjoyed excellent wines.
This renewed enthusiasm for the variety in Bierzo is spreading across neighbouring Galicia, traditionally known for its white wines. In the Galician DOs, Mencía is often blended with other local varieties, but in Bierzo it’s possible to see the true character of Mencía, as – with the exception of a few field blends – it is made as a single varietal. Burgundian? Yes, possibly. The adjective certainly reflects the approach to the vineyard and winemaking of many.
Pliny and Strabo both wrote about the vineyards of Bergidum, and the El Bierzo region was also famous at the time for Las Médulas, the largest gold mines in the Roman empire. Wine became established in medieval times. With Bierzo lying on pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela, there was plenty of demand. Later phylloxera wrought havoc here, as in so many places. Vines were replanted but Bierzo never recovered any serious sales outside the region. The cooperatives of the 1960s (still serving some 60% of all growers) brought in a phase of light unoaked reds and rosados.
Fresh impetus
Contemporary Bierzo was transformed by its people, who rescued the vines and restored the quality. One of the original leaders was José Luis Prada, an entrepreneur, whose Prada a Tope brand covers food, wine (sold under the Palacio de Gancedo label) and tourism.
The real impetus though arrived with Ricardo Pérez Palacios at the turn of the century. His uncle Alvaro Palacios had already made his name in Priorat, as one of the five founders of the rediscovered region. Pérez Palacios had studied in Bordeaux and was as enthralled by the Bierzo terroir as his uncle was by Priorat.